Industry Technologies
By Joe Altieri: Mentor, Educator, Trainer, Adjunct Professor FIT
Cut planning is the logical division of an order quantity into lays (spreads) of fabric so that the desired number of garment pieces can be cut in the required size ratio. It is performed to minimize time and effort in marker making, spreading, and cutting; as well as to maximize fabric utilization.
Why is maximizing fabric utilization important?
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Fabric can make up 50% - 65% of your total garment costs. This number can run higher depending on your market.
The cut planning process is triggered by a purchase order (PO). A retailer will either tour a showroom or meet with an account executive from a wholesaler or manufacturer. Products are selected from a lookbook or samples and an order is generated.
(Example of a PO)
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From this information, plus the maximum spread height and the fabric's cut-able width, we can set the parameters for the marker makers.
The maximum spread height lets your spreaders know the maximum spread possible without impacting quality. And the cut-able width lets your marker makers know how wide they can make their markers.
(Example of a cut plan)
NOTE: This is to serve as an example of a possible cut plan. There are multiple possible combinations that could have been used to cut this order.
NOTES FOR SPREADING:
• 1 marker each for the cream & rust fabrics, spread 60 ply high.• 1 marker to spread both the cream & rust fabrics, spread together at 10 plys each.• 1 marker to spread both the cream & rust fabrics. • Spread the cream 3 ply high and the rust 2 ply high.• Use tissue to separate the cream and rust fabrics in the marker where they are spread together.• Start with the rust fabric in the markers where the cream and rust are being spread together.
Analysis:
We will spread and cut 4 markers in total for a total of 32 sizes.The 60 ply high markers have 1 size Med & 1 size LG.The 10 ply high marker has 1 size XS, 4 size SM, 4 size XL and 1 size 2X.The marker spread 3 ply cream and 2 ply rust has 1 size XS, 1 size SM, 1 size XL and 1 size 2X.
NOTE: This is to serve as an example of a possible cut plan. There are multiple possible combinations that could have been used to cut this order.
