Intelligent Textiles
DTB & HSN Conference on Digitalization & AI in Product Development
By Yvonne Heinen-Foudeh, Senior International Correspondent
Linking Virtual Threads – agile and sustainableThe Faculty of Textiles & Apparel at the University for Applied Science Niederrhein (HSN) in Mönchengladbach, Germany, enjoys a top reputation far beyond the borders of Europe. This is due to the highest level of education, the best technical and laboratory equipment, and immense industry proximity as well as the applications and R&D capacities. It is therefore not surprising that alumni – many of whom are now in the industry's key positions – follow the call of the faculty and, together with one of the leading non-profit organizations for knowledge management. Dialog Textil-Bekleidung (DTB), brought valuable input and a wealth of experience with them – present on stage and within the audience for an interactive get-together along with technology experts around digitization and the transformation of the supply chain as a whole.
Plea for 2D - 3D model development plus AI application at Tukatech - from cutting to 3D visualization to AI application. Presented by Beena Miriam Scheer, Collaboration Officer Europe, the picture shows her on the right with her digital twin - both wearing the exemplary blouse model.
In keeping with the long tradition of never operating from an ivory tower, the conference on “Digitalization & AI in Product Development” was held jointly with the DTB at the end of October.
The two-day event offered experience reports from pioneers in the implementation of digitalization, including their first AI applications. The Speakers were not shy to describe both their success stories and the inevitable setbacks on the path to DPC (Digital Product Creation). Insights that were shared revealed the further course to be set and the most effective levers based on experience, which are necessary for the successful linking of all “virtual threads”.
The path is the goal.VirtualLab mastermind Prof. Dr.-Ing. Ernst was able to win over players closely associated with his work on virtual design, such as the brands Marc Cain, Olymp, and the S. Oliver Group with their six brands in total, for experience and status reports in an elite circle. Influenced by their insight into the 3D fashion world at HSN, they were able to bring the options of digitalization into the companies at an early stage. They all started eight to ten years ago as 'early adopters', learning how to use 3D visualization systems and what they could achieve at the time. They then grew with the system developers/providers in their DPC processes.
Results in EUR & cents are still “difficult” to quantify when we ask. A significant success factor is the now-optimized communication between designers and model makers. They all keep at it, of course, and adapt their strategies in an agile way. This currently includes evaluating and testing AI applications to optimize simulation results.
The majority of fashion companies that offered in-depth insight into their journey – initially towards digital product development – are among the 'early adopters', that have achieved more than average enterprises in the industry. Nevertheless, there is still a lot to do to digitally connect the virtual threads of all process elements while communicating in real-time and continuing day-to-day business, achieving sales, and margin targets.
Key Takeaways• The overall solution of linking all “virtual threads” does not (yet) exist. The partially implemented integration of digital model development and collection planning, primarily through PLM (Product Lifecycle Management), to date is one of the most promising success stories.• Decentralized concepts along product groups, capsule collections, or even individual brands, followed by systematic scaling, have proven to save disappointments and setbacks on the way to the digital Olympus.• Digital visualization is at the forefront of the defined KPIs. The option to view and thus evaluate a model early on, before prototypes are implemented, shortens the timeline and allows well-founded decisions to be made.• The realization of cost reductions through fewer sample parts and the replacement of time-consuming photo shoots tend to be secondary at this point in processing.• The onboarding of suppliers in 3D represents a challenge for itself. The tenor among the conference participants by DTB & HSN is: “Some suppliers are already very close, others are far behind.”• Concerning AI applications, the development of dedicated model databases, the objective of enabling data access via attributes of the single style, takes the top position in a holistic sense.• Creating fast and nice model images or AI-optimized videos has proven to be helpful marketing and sales tools, but they are probably less helpful when it comes to product implementation. Here, 2D-3D model development concepts point the way to preparing for the transformation: time-intensive workarounds via DXF & Co. are at best a half-hearted interim solution.• With 2D image generation set to be well and truly commoditized, new leaps are happening in 2D-to-3D AI workflows and video-to-video – with implications across fashion’s perception of DPC and marketing.• A change in the way 3D assets are made available to creators working with real-time engines like Unreal could provide even more support for fashion’s journey into real-time 3D.• Massive improvements to the original renderings can be achieved through AI reworking. Nevertheless, caution is also required here: for example, to rule out errors in color paths for printing.• The rapid development of generative AI agents and the options using deep learning may define new rules of the game. We have spoken to AI experts on the editorial side. Their estimate is five to ten years for the algorithm-based option of developing three-dimensional, then as individual as possible “design and construction plans for true-to-size apparel” from scratch. This is given the immense complexity.• Quite a lot has already been achieved in the optical recording of materials – Vizoo continues to shine here in its globally applied pioneering role in visualization. The consistent provision of actual material parameters for real-time simulation is still described by the majority of industrial users as inadequate.• Here, too, is the VirtualLab at the German Niederrhein University of Applied Sciences, headed by Prof. Dr.-Ing. Dipl.-Ing. Michael Ernst shows the way with his development, the Drapometer, fully automated and AI-supported detects the physical properties of materials in a time-lapse manner, which we convince ourselves on site (see photos).• The need to invest in innovation and further digitalization as well as the growing technological expertise of the next generation are key factors for the success of the industry in the future.
Amazing, groundbreaking, and thought-provoking...when the representative of the world market leader in the automation of clothing design, production & marketing dedicates her contribution to the DTB-HSN future meeting of teaching, industry & development to the topic of CSR. Karin Schiller, responsible for customer consulting on the path to the future at the Lectra Group, vividly documented what must now be the priority for a large number of entrepreneurs from 2025: “The creation of transparency, in procurement and along entire processes. the regulations on traceability and regulatory monitoring in the fashion industry are increasing rapidly,” she reminded the audience. Traceability - full tracing - in fact enables full transparency along the entire supply chain and is therefore crucial to understanding the origin of materials and their production conditions, which in turn forms the basis for sustainable decisions in production and consumption. Schiller continues: “Due to the complexity, tracking the regulations is almost impossible without the appropriate AI tools.”
With the recently launched Valia platform, Lectra as a matter of fact created the fundament for that ideology. A helpful service for event participants: the provision of an overview of the 22 most relevant sustainability regulations and initiatives as well as three categories of emerging legal requirements.
“Amazing, groundbreaking…”The good news: the majority of all regulatory requirements in the EU as well as other international fashion markets offer the opportunity of a fitness program for a (further) industry that will have to face change. ©: Getty Images/Lectra
Event highlights:In-depth presentations and experience reports for reflection and discussion were provided by, among others: Alvanon, Bianca Moden, Browzwear, DMIx by Color Digital, Grafis, Hugo Boss, Humanetics Digital Europe, IISYS, Jack Wolfskin, Lebek, Lectra, Marc Cain, Mey, Meyle + Müller, Natific, Olymp, Pattern Club Virtual Sampling, Studio Lupa, S.Oliver, Style3D/Assyst, Tukatech, Vizoo.
VirtualLab vs. weak point - time-saving provision of material parameters for virtual product development (DPC). Dorothee Güntzel, university lecturer for Special Sectional Design 2D3D CAD, presents the system. Photos: yh-f
“Fail fast - fail forward” - Alena Glimpel, team lead DCD, shares the top priority for Marc Cain’s early adventure towards 3D. The premium women's fashion brand achieved a great deal for the company's 50th anniversary back last year: Photo shows company founder & owner Helmut Schlotterer with supermodel Karolína Kurková for the jubilee analog fashion show.