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Supply Chain
Sourcing in Africa, Part 5: Real Garments Ltd, Mauritius – Ready for the future
By Yvonne Heinen-Foudeh, Senior International Correspondent
When checking the company's website, one says to oneself "Quite ambitious, your objectives and your mission". When visiting the company on site and taking the opportunity for a deep insight one learns, the entrepreneur himself and general management here systematically turn words into measurable results: The Needle’s Eye had a chance to look behind the scenes of Real Garments Ltd, located right beside the fishermen village Pointe aux Sables at the North-Western coast, in one of Mauritius’ free trade zones.
“We may not appear as a posh plant, but we work efficiently and we are growing.” as far an understatement from the words of Akhtar Latiff, sole owner and CEO of Real Garments Mauritius. A glimpse at the international customer list alone speaks volumes. Among the top brands and retail chains: are Barbour from the UK, Mise au Green from France, Cape Union Mart, South Africa, Danish Wear Group’s label Refined Rebel, and Polo Ralph Lauren from the US. A clear indication of Real Garment’s “favorite domaine” is displayed by loyal regular buyers such as Armani Jeans, Calvin Klein, Diesel, Guess Jeans, Vialli Jeans a.o.m. – Jeans wear.
“We speak Denim”
Committed toward the corporate mission to innovate processes and technology on a constant basis, the latest state-of-the-art technology is used here for both – sample making (inhouse CAD, including Gerber 3D software so far used for merchandising purposes), fabric spreading and cutting (Gerber Technology and Bullmer, four tables), manufacturing as well as the of finishing of denim jeans and jackets in a wide variety of styles.
In addition to the in-house printing and embroidery, we meet ecologically advanced ozone-based water-free bleaching, recirculating water-based enzyme stone-washing (Yilmak “Rain Forest RF400), “Green-washing” with Techno-flow application per reduced chemical input, and the latest laser technology enabling most flexible designs (Jeanologia Flex series). Each process step within Denim Finishing is networked with the EIM, the dedicated Environmental Impact Measurement software to minimize the usage of water, energy, and chemicals.
The position as a premium denim processor was further expanded internationally with the establishment of R.E.A.L. Tunisia in 2022: With the acquisition of Art Wash, the former production plant for the Big Star brand, right away a manufacturing project to sustainable standards was kicked off as well at Sousse, some 130 km from the capital Tunis. With a total of 300 employees in two dedicated divisions here one handles full package offerings from sample making, cutting/sewing, washing/dyeing, and finishing/packaging for 60,000 pieces of denim wear for men, ladies, and kids per month in an integrated process chain.
Stepping out of the routine……That is the maxim of Yassine El Keef, General Manager, a versed analyst with a continuous focus on process improvement at all ends. For his studies at ENSAIT (Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Arts et Industries Textiles), he had moved from Monestir – the French stronghold for textiles – to Roubaix. It is Yassine taking us on a tour through the factory, introducing us to versatile applications of his systematic working principle – from efficient output control per each single sewing line to the required volume increase in product development via talent scouting and training at the local Fashion and Design Institute Apparel Centre and the School of Fashion Design & Garment Making at the capital Port Louis.
Wandering through the washing, finishing, printing, and embroidery departments (capacity/month 200,000 pieces, 50 employees including one graphic designer), equipped with state-of-the-art and latest machinery, the general manager provides insight on project planning, individual targets, on-time plan fulfillment for the recently ongoing implementation of wastewater treatment and ZDHC (Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals) approach and photovoltaic cells in place for self-power-supply.
Walking the talk as well for the “We care, We aim, We act” slogan on their website Real Garments is audited and certified by OekoTex for the Denim segment from recycled and organic cotton, to WRAP, SMETA (SEDEX), SAC, CTPAT, SLCP, ISO 9001 V 2015 as well as HIGG. Full-ready garment certification is underway. Fabric and raw materials suppliers from China, Italy, India, Pakistan, and Turkey are certified by GOT, GRS, BCI, and/or Textile Exchange’s Recycled 100 Claim Standard respectively Organic Blended Content Standard.
Commitment to lasting customer relationshipsQuestion: Is the market rewarding your considerable investment in environmental protection? -We want to know from the company owner.
Answer: “Not necessarily – yet”, professes Akthar Latiff. “But we are all convinced of the necessity for our engagement as well in that respect and leverage severely from energy savings. Observing the growing market – consumer demand – for more sustainable fashion those experiences to fight obstacles, as well as our monetary investments are all getting the company and with us our customers in each respect – ready for the future."
The newest laser technology assures the highest flexibility to create any finishing design on the ready garment.
Quality assurance and control work for customer-specific hand-in-hand with brand merchandisers.
View into transfer printing department.
Pink summer season: View into piece dying at Real Garments Mauritius.
“Investment into people and technology is key to success”, stresses Akhtar Latiff. The owner and CEO of the showcase company, like something out of a textbook for apparel engineering with regard to the operator recruitment challenge at Mauritius: “We are glad to take ex-pats on board, but need government support to fully cope with that”.
“If you can’t measure it, you can’t manage it”, agree Real Garment General Manager Yassine El Keef (right) and AGT Consultant Clet Baba. Photos: Yvonne Heinen-Foudeh
Established in 1985...R.E.A.L Garments has grown to a capacity of 2 million (75% pants, 25% tops) pieces of garments per annum with a workforce of 1,200 employees (to date: 70% locals, 30% ex-pats).
Minimum orders Yassine El Keef specifies 1,018 pieces as per his break-even calculation. “Of course up to 10,000 pieces and more.” Despite full capacity utilization, one is open for new clients, however with a current lead time of six months. “We will need three months for operator recruitment and training according to our standards.”
Owner Latiff Akhtar prefers to not disclose revenue figures to us. Only this much: after constant development in the years 2017 to 2019 at Real Garments Mauritius, a pandemic-related slump of 25 percent had to be coped with in 2020 – with a total of four months of operation shutdown due to mandatory lockdowns. Already in the following year, the company was back to normal, could generate growth of 10 percent in 2022, and plans to increase by 23 percent in 2023. yh-f
Discovering and promoting talent: Real Garment's product development continues to grow with an enthusiastic team of young graduates from the local fashion & textile schools.
The Art of Washing: Yilmak’s Rainforest RF400 for stone & enzyme washing with unique water recirculation, lowest energy, and water consumption, engineered to connect to Ozon water cleaning and bleaching.
Innovating processes and technology on constant basis: Tonello Washing Machines stone and enzyme washing, bleaching and softening.
We speak Denim: “all those fashionable finishes”.
In-house embroidery with multi-head systems. Photos: yh-f