Subscribe to NEEdle's eye

Industry Technologies

Spreading/Cutting Room Optimization — Part 1: Fabric Spreading
By Dr. Trevor Little, Professor Emeritus, North Carolina State University and Dave Gardner, Editor/Publisher, The Needle’s Eye Today's market conditions are changing and redefining the way companies buy, produce, and sell their products. What is clear is that sewn products manufacturers are now focusing on becoming more agile and flexible to take advantage of new business opportunities and to meet the current needs of consumers by producing a wider variety of products in different volumes.
  • Achieving operational excellence and reducing production costs in spreading/cutting rooms is becoming not merely a basic improvement but a paramount necessity to create a solid base to face today's business environment. This means investing to take advantage of the best available resources, avoid errors and rework, increase machine uptime, improve operationally, and maintain training and teamwork.
  • In traditional manufacturing, cutting and spreading become important determinants of productivity. Hence, they determine order quantity, cost, and quality. The "cutting" room, therefore, sets the requirements for the remainder of product assembly. Of course, there are many variations of the practice, but as the industry moves more and more to "mass variety" there will be a need for a more flexible spreading/cutting room.
  • In the interim, it may be two or more systems operating to match the order activity and optimize production.

  • Fabric spreading – a time-consuming job – is an important operation in garment manufacturing. To get fault-free fabrics from the cutting operation, accurate fabric spreading is needed. Spreading is typically a sub-section of the fabric cutting department in the industry.
  • A proper fabric spreading process in garment manufacturing may affect productivity, quality, and cost of production. It's important to maintain the proper spreading shape of fabric before cutting garments. Correct fabric spreading means a smooth laying out of fabric in superimposed layers (plies) of a specified length. Knitted or woven fabrics are laid in one ply (single ply) or several plies (multi-lays) for simultaneous cutting in one operation.
  • Some fabric spreading machines have “turntables” to allow Face-Up Two-Way spreading. Then the product has one size running one way and another size running oppositely. Typically, it is a faster approach but the marker must be made differently.
  • Single-ply cutting does not require a “spread”. We typically view more “personalized” products or “customized” products (stripe matches, plaid matches, size matches, leather, signage, etc.) will be single ply.
  • There is more and more single-ply cutting today when we include cutting for “dye sublimation” printing which is ideal for fashion, sports apparel, custom apparel, costumes, bedding & blankets, tapestries, shower curtains, drapery, décor, etc.
  • Four methods of fabric spreading are available in the garment industry
  • Piece goods are provided in rolled or lapped form and are spread opened or folded. On the fold, markers are used for doubled lays while full markers serve for open lays. Piece good lays are either single lays (consisting of one fabric ply) or multi-lays (formed by several plies).
  • 1. Completely manual laying-up:
  • This is the most extensively used method in countries where adequate labor is available with cheaper wages. The manual spreading process is suitable for small-scale production. With this method, a roll of fabric is used and one end is fixed at one side of the table, and spreading continues without using any mechanical assistance. Manual spreading may be used for all kinds of fabrics, including those with complex structures and intricate patterns. In large-scale production, manual cutting is often used for working with intricately patterned and high-cut pile fabrics. When compared to automated spreading, the cost of technical equipment in manual spreading is low, but the productivity is poor. The spreading process is repeated until the desired number of fabric plies are laid down. Several workers are required to carry out this process to fulfill the requirements of fabric spreading.

  • 2. Electrically driven laying-up by spreading machines:
  • An electrically driven and controlled cloth spreading machine that has a means for reversing the travel of the machine, one for controlling the high and low speeds of the machine, one for causing the machine to fail-safe at low speed upon power failure and open circuit conditions that are caused by different changes in the function of the machine.
  • 3. Manual laying-up aided by spreading and cutting off devices:
  • The fabric in roll form may be supported to a frame and carried along the table where the end is secured by weight or by a clamp. The operators work back from the end aligning the edges and ensuring that there are no wrinkles or any extra tension. The ply is normally cut with hand shears or with a powered circular knife mounted on the frame. This system of spreading is suitable for checks or striped or other regular repeating patterns.

  • 4. Manually driven, mechanized laying-up using carriages:
  • This spreading machine carries a piece of fabric from end to end of the spread dispensing one ply at a time onto the spread. The frame or carrier wheels are traveling on guide rails at the edges of the table, fabric support, and guide collars to aid the correct unrolling of the fabric. In the simpler versions, the operators clamp the free end of the fabric in line with the end of the spread, push the spreader to the other end, cut off the ply in line with that end, clamp the beginning of the next ply, push the spreader to the other end, and so on.
As a fabric lay is made by spreading hundreds of layers of fabrics and it is done on the cutting table, the construction of the table should be strong and the top of it should be very smooth. Especially, if the spreading machine is set on the spreading table, the table should be even better constructed. The good quality spreading table possesses holes on their tops through which air is blown outside from the inside. As a result, it becomes easier to remove the fabric lay or its parts from the spreading table. Also, there may be a system for sucking air and as a result, the height of the fabric layer may be lessened by air compressing, and ultimately fabric cutting becomes easier. Semi-automatic and full-automatic methods of fabric spreading have significantly increased the productivity of the spreading process, but have not altered its main work principles. Similar operations are performed in both the manual and the automated spreading processes.
  • Advantages of Manual Fabric Spreading:
  • • Easy to operate
  • • Investment low
  • • Suitable for small-scale garment manufacturing
  • • Suitable for cheap, available labor
  • Advantages of Semi-Automatic Spreading:
  • • The fabric width which can be handled is normally 2 m (78") although extra-wide machines are capable of handling up to 3m (118")
  • • Auto plies counting arrangements
  • • Auto catcher to hold the ends of the ply
  • • Auto fabric tensioning device
  • • Auto fabric leveling device
  • • Photoelectric guide for selvage (selvedge: a derivation of “self-edge” alignment)
  • • Fabric fault detector
  • • A platform is provided on which the operator stands
  • • The maximum weight of the fabric roll can be 80 kgs (186 lbs) to 675 kgs (1488 lbs)
  • • The maximum height of the spread is 25 cm (9.84")
  • • Maximum spread speed 100 m/min (3937 yds/min)
  • • It has also rolled turning arrangement
  • • Autoloading and unloading device
  • Advantages of Fully Automatic Spreading:
  • • The spreading machine is operated by controlling with the help of a microprocessor and robot
  • • After completing, fabric spreading will stop automatically and give a signal
  • • By using a robotic system, it will automatically come to the end of the table and set another roll in the spreading head when the spreading of each roll is finished
  • • It is automatically spliced and starts new fabric spreading when the last fabric roll has finished
  • • There is a spreading head so that any types of faults are identified by using this sensor, and also the spreading head is stopped and the defective fabric is cut by itself
  • • Any kind of fabric can be spread by using this machine and any kind of lay can be made
  • • Less time is needed for fabric spreading
  • • Also, it needs less labor cost, however, the capital investment is high
Requirements for Fabric SpreadingFor making an accurate and fair lay of fabric after spreading, several conditions and technical aspects need to be met. Among the conditions, some are compulsory and others are not compulsory but it is good if they are fulfilled. The conditions are discussed below, of which the first three are basic requirements and the remaining are additional requirements. Whichever way the fabric spreading is done, the basic requirements must be fulfilled.
Pathfinder FabricPro™ Tension Free Automatic Material Spreader
  • a) Alignment of fabric plies (basic requirement):
  • Fabric spread is done as per the length and width of a marker. It is strictly maintained so that each of the fabric plies is placed perfectly within the length and width of the marker in laying during the spreading of fabric. Otherwise, the fabric of any ply which will be placed beyond the dimension of the length or width of the marker will be cut incorrectly. To avoid this mistake, each of the plies is placed and controlled along the width maintaining the selvage of at least one side in the same line. Sometimes, along the width of the fabric, the center position of it is placed and controlled in the same place. To ensure the length of each ply along the length of the marker, the length of the fabric lay is kept about 2cm (.8") larger than the marker length in each end.

  • b) Correct ply tension (basic requirement):
  • Fabric lay is made fairly by placing one ply of fabric above the other. Fabric lay can be done manually as well as by machine. Whatever way the fabric spread is done, it must be ensured that each ply of fabric is tension free so that fabric spread is not done in loose condition otherwise the fabric lay will be defective, fabric cutting will be inconvenient, and patterns will be defective. If the fabric is spread under high tension, shrinkage may occur in various parts of the garments resulting in the production of defective garments. For this reason, fabric tension must be maintained during spreading. There are some fabrics with inherent tensions, which may be developed during weaving, finishing, or roll formation. These fabrics need to be made tension free before making the fabric lay. Some fabrics such as knits with elastic or textured yarns are prone to grow (become longer). During the spread of these fabrics, special attention is given and cut 12 to 24 hours after laying, so that the fabric can relax to its normal condition by this time. To overcome this tension problem during fabric spread, modern spreading machines can be used which also add some additional related benefits.

  • c) Fabric must be flat (basic requirement):
  • During spreading, there must not be any folding or crinkles in the fabrics. If any are found, then measures have to be taken immediately to remove them. If spreading is not done in flat conditions, defects are there, that part of the pattern will be defective, and the garments made with that pattern will also be defective.

  • d) Elimination of fabric flaws:
  • During spreading any fabric flaws should be marked and measures should be taken to remove those flaws. Those in charge of fabric spreading will have the responsibility of marking the flaws and their removal. During spreading if any flaws are found, then various measures can be adopted for their removal. For example, rejecting the fabric of the defective place, the fabric spread may be done through splicing. If the splice marking is done in the marker before, then it is to be followed, otherwise, an arrangement should be kept for sufficient overlapping so that all the patterns of that place are obtained in full dimension. During the production of garments of comparatively cheap prices, fabric defects are sometimes overlooked and during inspection after the production of the garments, the defective garments are rejected. If the fabric defect is in a small place, a small piece of metal tape is attached to that place. Then after completion of fabric cutting, the bundles of fabric patterns are passed through a metal detector machine. The bundles that contain metal tapes are detected. The defective patterns are removed and those patterns are replaced by cutting fresh patterns. Today in fabric spreading with computers, if there is any fabric defect, it can be detected and the required amount of splice required for that defective part can be determined promptly.

  • e) Correct ply direction:
  • The type of fabric must be known before spreading. If it is symmetrical (same on both sides), then no problem will arise. But if it is asymmetrical (different on both sides), then the side of the fabric ply has to be determined with caution based on the marker planning, otherwise, garments may be defective. During the making of fabric lay, the face of each fabric ply may be placed on the top side, bottom side, or face-to-face.

  • f) Elimination of static electricity:
  • Static electricity may be produced in fabrics due to friction occurring during spreading. In the fabrics, especially where the proportion of synthetic fiber is high, the static electricity is produced on a larger scale during the spreading. Thus it becomes complicated to place the fabric of one ply to the other which means the plies of attraction or repulsion. For overcoming this problem, arrangements can be made to reduce friction in fabrics by adjusting the room humidity, using a special oil between two layers of fabric, or earthing (grounding) of the fabric lay can be done.

  • g) Easy separation of the cut lay into bundles:
  • The bundle size of the cut fabrics depends on the height of the fabric lay. During spreading, differentiation marks among the fabric plies may be required due to the color or shade variation or for any other reasons. For making this differentiation, a low-priced colored paper layer can be used between the fabric plies. After cutting the fabric for differentiation between colored and non-colored in each bundle, the use of such colored paper is very helpful. Moreover, in the case of slippery fabric, such colored paper helps hold the fabric lay firmly. The colored paper used for this purpose is generally rough surfaced.

  • h) Avoidance of fusion of plies during cutting:
  • During the time of cutting the fabric lay with the cutting knife, heat is created due to the friction between fabrics and the knife. The fabrics in which there are thermoplastic fibers, those fibers can melt due to frictional heat. The melted matters take the form of polymer bid or grain due to joining together or the cutting ends join with one another. As a result, it becomes inconvenient to separate the patterns and thus defective patterns are created. During the making of fabric lay, anti-fusion paper ply is spread between the layers at a regular gap so that such types of these problems do not occur. There is a greasy substance in anti-fusion papers that lubricates the cutting knife during cutting. There is less friction between the fabric and the knife and less friction-related heat is produced. Due to the lesser amount of heat, the possibility of fabrics being fused is lessened.

  • i) Avoidance of distortion in the spread:
  • During the removal of fabric lay or the cutting of the fabric lay with a straight knife, there may be folding marks or crinkle marks in plies at the bottom of the lay due to the friction with the base plate of the knife. As a result, a defective pattern may be made after cutting the fabric. To eliminate this kind of inconvenience, a fabric lay is made on smooth paper. Moreover, due to the use of smooth paper, there is no possibility of a rough face of a fabric caused by friction of the table with the fabric.

  • j) Matching checks or stripes:
  • During the time of creating a lay by the spreading of fabrics, one needs to remain observant so that if the fabric is a check or stripe, then one ply of fabric needs to be placed on the other by matching the checks or stripes properly. In the interest of matching the checks or stripes in garments, marker planning also needs to be done by matching the checks and stripes. This matching may be required to be maintained in the warp direction, in the weft direction, or both in warp and weft directions.
Depending upon the fabric and cutting technology, up to 200-300 plies (3-4") may be cut at one time. Fabrics that are more difficult to handle are generally cut in thinner stacks.
Spreading Terminology
• A cutting 'marker' –laid on the topmost layer. • Maximum cutting width – usable fabric width minus the selvage or needle marks caused by stencil marks. • Fabric utilization – the amount of fabric utilized in the marker as a percentage of the total fabric area. Types of Lay Plan• Half Garment Lay – includes only half of the garment pieces, for example, one side left or right. Generally used for tubular fabrics.• Whole Garment Lay – includes garment pieces, left and right sides. Generally used for Open width fabrics.• Single Size Lay – used using all garment pieces of one single size. Disadvantageous as the consumption of fabric is higher. Types of Lay• Single Ply – a single layer of fabric generally to make samples• Multiple Ply – several fabric layers stacked on one top of other• Stepped Lay – multiple lays in which groups of layers have different lengths are generally used for getting the best utilization and consumption of fabric. Forms of Spreading• One Way Cutting – fabric is laid the same way up with grain or print pattern running in the same direction. The fabric has to be cut at the end of each ply.• Face-to-Face Cutting – plies are laid in pairs face to face. The grain or pattern runs in the same direction.• Two-Way Cutting – plies are laid continuously from left to right and right to left without cutting at the end. Most Efficient method of spreading. Cannot be used with grain restrictions or one-directional printed fabric. Presentation of Fabrics• Presentation depends on the type of materials and their application. Generally, fabrics are open width (rolled), doubled (wound), or tubular (plaited) Ideal Lay height for cuttingFabric Weight — Woven — KnitsHeavy Weight — 4-5" — 4-5"Med Weight — 3-4" — 3-3.5"Light Weight — 2.5-3" — 2-2.25"
subscribe to the needle's eye newsletter