The NEEDLE'S EYE... Trends and Technologies Driving the Sewn Products Industry
The Needle's Eye - October 1970
- In this issue of THE NEEDLE’S EYE, we take a close look at flax, one of the oldest cultivated plants. The cover of the October 1970 issue of THE NEEDLE’S EYE illustrates that linen robes woven from the fibers of the flax plant clothed the Pharaohs of ancient Egypt. When the Pharaohs died, their bodies were mummified with the help of linen cloth. Many years later, when it was discovered that linen could be dyed, it became the "Royal Purple” of kings and high priests.
- Today, women prize the beautiful table linens made from flax. Linseed oil, made from flax seed, is a valuable commodity used in the manufacture of paints and varnishes.
- Flax is a delicate-looking plant with a slender stem and small green leaves. Fully grown flax may be 20 to 40 inches (50.8 to 101.6 cm) high. During processing, the woody outer stem is removed from the fibers inside. These fibers may then be spun into yarn and woven into linen cloth.
- Flax is a bast fiber obtained from the stem of the flax plant. It is known for its softness, strength, and luster, making it popular for textiles like linen.
Digital cutting systems to meet your every need! When it comes to high-performance digital cutting, your needs are our command. With the innovative cutting systems from Zünd, you’ll reach peak productivity and stay a step ahead of the competition. The unique, modular systems from Zünd give you all the flexibility you need in digital cutting. Your materials, paired with the Swiss precision and reliability of a Zünd cutter, make for an unbeatable combination.
In 2025, see Zünd at: ISA Sign Expo - Las Vegas, NV - April 23-25 • Texprocess Americas - Atlanta, GA - May 6-8 • Furniture Manufacturing Expo - Hickory, NC - June 11-12 • CamX - Orlando, FL - September 8-11 • Printing United Expo - Orlando, FL - October 22-24
Industry Opinion #1
The Global Trade Equation: Tariffs, Labor Costs, and the Path Ahead
- As we navigate the complexities of global trade, it’s worth examining some critical factors impacting industries like apparel manufacturing.
- ‘The Global Trade Equation’ opinion was initially posted by Charlie Merrow (CEO of The Merrow Group Companies) on LinkedIn. Frank Henderson (President, of Henderson Sewing Machine Co.), and David Billstrom (Advisor to Leaders, Passionate about Making in the U.S.A.) add their opinions.
Example: For T-shirt production: With a current tariff rate of 24% (from China), a new total tariff would need to climb by an additional 446% (to a staggering 470% total tariff) to fully neutralize the labor cost disparity between American and Chinese production. Read More >
C and C Enterprise has teamed up with JACK, one of the world’s finest industrial sewing machine manufacturers, to form Jack of the Americas. Jack of the Americas distributes JACK machines throughout North America, Mexico, Central America, and the Caribbean Basin. When you buy from Jack of The Americas, we don’t just ship you a box! We help you get set up and answer any questions you may have! With over 100 years of combined experience in the industrial sewn products industry, we are proud to say that we are one of the world’s leading industrial sewing products authorities and are here to serve you! Not sure if Jack is right for you? Click on the button below for a short video showing off some of our machines. Watch it and see what Jack can do for you!
The Pathfinder M-Series® range of automated cutting machines is known for precision, very high productivity, reliability, and lowest power consumption. All 16 models are easily configured to suit most cutting applications, and, thanks to clever design, Pathfinder cutters require very little maintenance to continually deliver exceptional cut quality over a long working life.
Industry Opinion #2
Forging the Future: The Resurgence of American Manufacturing
By Joe Altieri, FIT Adjunct Professor, Mentor, Educator, and Trainer
The revitalization of American manufacturing is not just a return to tradition but a bold leap toward innovation, sustainability, and economic strength. Essential for ensuring economic sustainability, technological leadership, and national competitiveness, this transformation symbolizes resilience driven by cutting-edge technology, green energy, and a collaborative workforce.
However, the journey to achieving a robust and resilient manufacturing sector is far from simple. It demands considerable investment, strategic policy shifts, and coordinated efforts from multiple stakeholders. To understand the path forward, we delve into a detailed roadmap for the sector’s future, outlining the timeline, costs, economic impact, and necessary investments.
Read More >
.png)
Diamond Needle Corp., Founded in 1951, is one of the world’s largest distributors of sewing machine needles. Our alliance with ORGAN NEEDLE CO. of Japan, as their exclusive North American distributor, gives us the backing of the world’s leading quality maker of sewing machine needles.
Industry Leaders Pass
Lew Feinberg of Frontier Distributors/Phillocraft Passes
Lewis “Lew” Richard Feinberg
SPESA member Lewis “Lew” Richard Feinberg, president and general manager of Frontier Distributors/Phillocraft, passed away on December 14 at age 87.
Starting as an engineering trainee in 1960, Feinberg worked in positions of increasing responsibility at Levi Strauss until he became Director of Engineering for the Youthware Division. He designed and started 14 new production plants and coordinated eight major plant expansions, resulting in a doubling of production capacity and realizing an annual cost savings of over US$2,400,000.
At Big "D" Sewing Machine Company, Feinberg served as president and general manager until 1981, where he slashed receivables by $50,000, cut aged receivables over 60 days from 51% to 15%, and raised sales from $7,000 per month to over $120,000 per month. Read More >
Isak Andic, Founder of Mango Fashion Chain, Dies at 71
Isak Andic, who built the fashion brand Mango from a Spanish storefront into a global giant with more than 2,000 stores on five continents, died in a fall while hiking near Barcelona, Spain. He was 71.
The death was announced by Mango CEO Toni Ruiz. The cause was confirmed by Glòria Torrent Caldas, a spokesperson for the company.
Andic, bespectacled and seen as relatively reclusive, started Mango in the mid-1980s by selling T-shirts in Barcelona. Over four decades, Mango grew into one of Spain's leading international retailers, known for its creative, eclectic, and ever-changing selection of affordable womenswear.
Andic, who held the title of non-executive chair at Mango, had a net worth of roughly $4.5 billion at the time of his death, according to Forbes magazine.
Read More >
Isak Andic
.png)
The Merrow Group consists of three unique divisions, all designed to support and accelerate the growth of soft-goods manufacturing. One of these divisions is their Wholesale Group: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply.
Superior, the largest wholesale supplier of more than 72,000 products to sewing factories across North, Central, and South America, plays a vital role in supporting the broader manufacturing ecosystem. In an industry where precision, speed, and reliability are crucial for maintaining competitive production, having access to in-stock items is not just convenient, it is essential.
Superior operates a network of 1,600 resellers that support approximately 70,000 factories across North, Central, and South America. This extensive network enables Superior to swiftly introduce new technologies and products that can significantly enhance the efficiency and competitiveness of soft goods manufacturing.
Industry News
National Defense Authorization Act Aims to Expand Government Procurement of American-Made Goods in Boost for U.S. Textile Industry
The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO), spanning the entire spectrum of U.S. textiles from fiber to finished sewn products, commends the House of Representatives for passing the Fiscal Year 2025 National Defense Authorization Act (NDAA).
The legislation helps preserve the Berry Amendment supply chain and authorizes the Department of Defense (DOD) to take steps to build up the defense textile stockpile and directs the DOD to be more transparent and disclose all waivers submitted for the procurement of defense textiles not made in the United States.
Read More >
Since 1898, Consew has designed and manufactured the most reliable machines in the sewing industry. Today, Consew has one of the largest varieties of sewing, cutting, and pressing equipment; as well as an extensive line of supplies related to the sewn products industry. From standard walking foot machines for upholstery to specialty 4 needle lockstitch machines for parachutes, from long-arm zig-zag (up to 30”) machines for boat sails to extra heavy-duty machines for webbing, Consew has it all. Our machines are well-designed for sewing leather, canvas, shoes, saddles, mattresses, tents, tarps, and sails, as well as jeans and other garments. With offices in New Jersey, Miami, and Los Angeles, as well as a distribution network throughout the world, Consew can quickly supply and service the machines you need.
Mexico Ends Border-Skipping Loophole Frequently Exploited by E-Commerce Companies
Mexican President Claudia Sheinbaum has issued a decree that effectively ended the popular “border-skipping” strategy many U.S. e-commerce sellers used to avoid tariffs on Chinese goods. This decision, which was announced on December 19 and took effect immediately, primarily targets apparel imports and is set to have far-reaching consequences for the industry.
For years, U.S. companies have been importing goods from China to Mexico, shipping them one order at a time to the U.S., effectively avoiding tariffs under the Section 321 provision. This loophole allowed for duty-free entry of shipments valued at $800 or less, making it an attractive option for e-commerce businesses looking to minimize costs. Read More >
Mexican President Claudia Sheinbaum
.png)
Americas 21st offers comprehensive assistance in equipment, training, engineering, ergonomics, and workforce development. Notably, we proudly hold the distinction of being the sole government-accredited Sewing Mechanic Training Program in North America. Additionally, we stand out as the exclusive provider of the TSS lean sewing production system, accompanied by a distinctive line of ergonomic sewing accessories tailored to enhance efficiency and comfort in the sewing process.
EU and Mercosur Reach Political Agreement on Groundbreaking Partnership
The President of the European Commission Ursula von der Leyen and her counterparts from four Mercosur countries (Brazilian President Lula, Argentinian President Milei, Paraguayan President Peña, and Uruguayan President Lacalle Pou) finalized negotiations for a groundbreaking EU-Mercosur partnership agreement.
President of the European Commission, Ursula von der Leyen, said: “This is a win-win agreement, which will bring meaningful benefits to consumers and businesses, on both sides. We are focused on fairness and mutual benefit. We have listened to the concerns of our farmers and we acted on them. This agreement includes robust safeguards to protect your livelihoods. EU-Mercosur is the biggest agreement ever when it comes to the protection of EU food and drink products. More than 350 EU products now are protected by a geographical indication. In addition, our European health and food standards remain untouchable. Mercosur exporters will have to comply strictly with these standards to access the EU market. This is the reality of an agreement that will save EU companies €4 billion worth of export duties per year.” Read More >
C and C Enterprise is the United States agency for Highlead sewing machines. These high-quality machines are available for your sewing needs and are sold only through local dealers and distributors. If you want more information on the Highlead brand, please feel free to contact us. www.candcenterprise.com
Cascale Assembles U.S. Policy Member Expert Team to Shape Industry Priorities During Key Political Period
Cascale announces the formation of its U.S. Policy Member Expert Team (MET), an advisory group of industry leaders and experts drawn from its membership community. Designed to reflect the voices of Cascale’s diverse membership, the MET is tasked with defining Cascale’s U.S. policy priorities and guiding the organization’s regional advocacy strategy. As the nation transitions into a new legislative cycle following the presidential election, the U.S. Policy MET will play a crucial role in shaping Cascale’s approach to addressing key challenges and opportunities for the textiles, apparel, and wider consumer goods sector.
“The United States has the world’s largest fashion market, with revenue exceeding $350 billion,” said Dr. Thiwanka De Fonseka, director of sustainability, Komar Brands. “The U.S. Policy MET, initiated by the fashion industry stakeholders, is critical to balancing the pressing need for sustainable development in the fashion industry with consistent growth. It ensures that products and services that enhance climate resilience, equitable partnerships, better livelihoods, and nature-positive impacts can move forward effectively without compromising environmental, social, and governance safeguards under strong U.S. policies that will impact the entire world.” Read More >
Henderson Sewing Machine Co, founded in 1968, is a global supplier of industrial sewing machines, sewing machine parts, and custom automated sewing machines for the SEWING PRODUCTS INDUSTRY. We have grown by offering customers the highest quality products at competitive prices with superior customer service. We also have a cutting-edge engineering team that designs custom automated systems to fill any need you may have.
Zalando and ABOUT YOU Team Up to Lead the Way in European Fashion and Lifestyle E-commerce
Zalando to Take Over Rival About You in US$1.3 Billion PurchaseTo improve its standing in the European fashion and lifestyle e-commerce sector, Zalando, a German online fashion marketplace, has offered to pay around €1.2 billion ($1.3 billion) to acquire its competitor, About You.
According to Zalando, the bulk of About You’s owners, who own about 73% of the company’s share capital, have established legally binding agreements to sell their holdings. Zalando stated that it plans to eventually purchase all of About You’s stock. Read More >
Lutai Group to Establish its First Factory in Egypt with US$385M Investments
The General Authority for Investment and Free Zones (GAFI) announced that Lutai Group, the world’s largest producer of dyed fabrics and shirts, will establish its first factory in Egypt. The $385 million facility will span 500,000 square meters. GAFI’s CEO, Hossam Heiba, met with Lutai’s delegation to finalize plans.
Liu Deming, Lutai’s Global Marketing Director, confirmed the company’s goal to create a full supply chain in Egypt, from yarn production to garment manufacturing, with 100% of the output for export. This aligns with Egypt’s strategy to attract export-oriented investments. Read More >
Sustainability
Hugo Boss Advances Sustainability with Launch of Material Recycling Company Eightyards
By Marybeth Collins: environmentenergyleader.com
Hugo Boss continues to make significant strides in sustainability with the launch of Eightyards, a new material recycling company designed to propel the brand’s dedication to environmentally conscious and resource-efficient production methodologies. Fully owned by Hugo Boss, Eightyards is set to begin operations in January 2025, serving as a cornerstone in the company’s strategy to achieve climate neutrality and advance circularity across its value chain.
Leadership and MissionThe new venture will be led by Marketa Miltenberger, who will serve as director, alongside Placido Klitzke as co-director. Both leaders bring extensive expertise and a deep understanding of Hugo Boss’ operations, having been promoted from within the company. Read More >
Marketa Miltenberger, Director, and Placido Klitzke, Co-Director, HUGO BOSS, Photo Credit: HUGO BOSS
Supply Chain
U.S. Reduces Garment Imports from China, Benefiting Other Asian Countries
In a significant shift in global trade dynamics, the United States has steadily reduced its garment imports from China over the past decade.
This decline, spurred by the US-China trade war and concerns over China's human rights violations, has opened doors for other Asian countries to expand their presence in the American apparel market.
According to a recent report by the United States International Trade Commission (USITC), China — once the dominant supplier of garments to the US— saw its market share plummet by 16.4 percent between 2013 and 2023. In contrast, nations like Vietnam, Bangladesh, India, and Cambodia have emerged as major beneficiaries of this shift. Read More >