The NEEDLE'S EYE... Trends and Technologies Driving the Sewn Products Industry
Needle's Eye Front Cover June 1950
The Needle's Eye - June 1950
Mid-Century Cover (1920 – 1930)
By John W. McLain, San Francisco
The front cover of this issue commemorates the third decade of the Twentieth Century, 1920-1930. This was a time of violent changes in thought, activity, and standards.
Europe didn’t seem so far away after Lindberg successfully winged the Spirit of St. Louis to Le Bourget Airport in Paris, France and thus made trans-oceanic air travel more than speculation.
This country’s sons and daughters were fun-minded. Interest in sports was focused on stars such as Babe Ruth (baseball) and Jack Dempsey (boxing). Auto races came in for their share of attention, with the big events being the races at the Indianapolis Speedway. Gaiety reached a high peak in the free and easy days of the late twenties… the days of "speakeasies", the "Charleston", and the "Black Bottom". And on the stock market, there was wild excitement, too, while ticker tape reports went higher and higher.
But while we reminisce about the frivolity of the era, we should not overlook the achievements that were taking place in industry and the advancements that helped to bring about our amazingly high standard of living. During this time new machines were introduced and existing machines were upgraded and modernized.
Industry Technologies
Seams and Stitches (Part 1): International Nomenclature Aids Garment Producers
This is the first of a two-part feature that was based on an article written by Ken Sandow, who was an instructor and technician at Union Special’s Technical Training Center. From 1970 to 1972, Ken served as a sewing engineer in the Union Special's Product Application Department.
In the example shown here, a 401-LSc-2 "401" indicates a two-thread chainstitch double locked. "LS" indicates a lapped seam, while the "c" indicates the specific seam configuration. The "2" indicates that two independent rows of 401 stitches are used to construct this seam.
401-LSc-2 two-thread chainstitch
Following the first mechanically formed 101 stitches produced in 1825, inventors throughout the world were quick to develop improved machines and more complex stitches. By the turn of the century, most of the stitch types used today had been invented, providing garment manufacturers with a wide selection. Each had its own special attributes of strength, elasticity, coverage, invisibility, and decoration.
With nearly 60 different stitch types available, a degree of confusion was inevitable. Often it was caused by the same stitch being referred to by different names in different parts of the world. Not until 1925 did a committee organized by the Federal Specifications Board classify the many different stitches and seams according to a convenient, and now internationally accepted, system of letters and numbers.
The nomenclature of a stitch/seam type consists of a number to designate the stitch type followed by letters to designate the seam type. Capital letters are used to indicate the general seam classification and are followed by a lowercase letter which indicates the specific seam type within the more general classification. A final number, following the stitch/seam specification, indicates the number of independent rows of stitches used in the seam. Read More >
C and C Enterprise has teamed up with JACK, one of the world’s finest industrial sewing machine manufacturers, to form Jack of the Americas. Jack of the Americas distributes JACK machines throughout North America, Mexico, Central America, and the Caribbean Basin. When you buy from Jack of The Americas, we don’t just ship you a box! We help you get set up and answer any questions you may have! With over 100 years of combined experience in the industrial sewn products industry, we are proud to say that we are one of the world’s leading industrial sewing products authorities and are here to serve you! Not sure if Jack is right for you? Click on the button below for a short video showing off some of our machines. Watch it and see what Jack can do for you!
ZCC Zünd Cut Center Ushers in a New Era in Digital Cutting Automation!
ZCC Zünd Cut Center
Zünd has revamped the ZCC Zünd Cut Center software and user interface from the ground up. In Version 4, the ZCC Zünd Cut Center software suite offers even more capabilities for flexible, automated file preparation and efficient digital cutting. Controlling the cutter via touchscreen makes for an extremely intuitive and simple operation.
ZCC Zünd Cut Center is the command center for production and controls the material-handling systems used in loading and unloading. The software automates production workflow, from data import and optimization to cutter control and production monitoring.
The use of a touchscreen makes the new ZCC easy to operate. The settings follow a logical progression through the setup process. Various tabs guide the operator step by step through production preparation and control of the cutter. Ease of use minimizes the time required for preparing jobs and significantly shortens the training time for new operators. Read More >
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The Pathfinder M-Series® range of automated cutting machines is known for precision, very high productivity, reliability, and lowest power consumption. All 16 models are easily configured to suit most cutting applications, and, thanks to clever design, Pathfinder cutters require very little maintenance to continually deliver exceptional cut quality over a long working life.
Lectra Launches Latest Intelligent, Connected Cutting Equipment for Fashion
Lectra supports the transformation of fashion, automotive, and furniture players by providing them with technological solutions that accelerate their transition to a more efficient and more sustainable Industry 4.0.
The Group announced the launch of a new generation of intelligent, connected low-ply equipment for the fashion industry, VectorFashion iX2 and VectorFashion Q2. They are particularly well suited to ensuring a quick, easy transition from small-volume production to larger order volumes while maintaining optimal cutting quality. Developed with an eco-design approach, their environmental and social impact has been significantly improved.
In fashion, the current trend is towards capsule collections and the constant renewal of products. Manufacturers therefore have to produce smaller volumes of the same design and the number of orders to process and materials to cut is increasing. VectorFashion iX2 and VectorFashion Q2 allow manufacturers to cut variable volumes in an agile manner, in all types of materials. Read More >
SCHMETZ...your manufacturer of household and industrial sewing machine needles. The product and service spectrum of SCHMETZ covers a complete range of the individual requirements of over 47 sectors in the sewing and textile processing industry, as well as for workshops and the hobby sector. Placing the highest demands on the materials used, the processing techniques, and product quality, combined with the goal of developing tailored solutions for every application, are both the focus and the mission statement of the company.
Cone Denim Joins CIRCULOSE Supplier Network
Cone Denim has become the first denim mill in North America to join the CIRCULOSE® Supplier Network, a network comprised of yarn and textile producers committed to streamlining and increasing CIRCULOSE® production across the supply chain.
“Our partnership in the CIRCULOSE® Supplier Network underscores Cone Denim’s commitment to drive change toward a sustainable fashion future,” said Caitlyn Holt, Cone Denim Director of Product and Innovation. “We’re committed to making the textile value chain circular by increasing the percentage of recycled content in the denim fabrics we design, develop, and bring to market.” Read More >
Diamond Needle Corp., Founded in 1951, is one of the world’s largest distributors of sewing machine needles. Our alliance with ORGAN NEEDLE CO. of Japan, as their exclusive North American distributor, gives us the backing of the world’s leading quality maker of sewing machine needles.
Best of Bangladesh in Amsterdam: Exploring Untapped Opportunities
By Yvonne Heinen-Foudeh, Senior International Correspondent
As a matter of fact, it is Europe that represents the largest export destination of Bangladesh. For apparel, 60% of total exports at an expected record value of around 26.7 bn € (30,01 bn US$) in 2023 go to EU countries. RMG exports from the South Asian country in 2022 augmented to a total of 9,74 bn US$, while seeing an increase of 36.3%.
However, there are a lot of business opportunities that remain untapped between Bangladesh and in particular the European market. To explore those, and to open doors for Europe to the best of what Bangladesh’s industry has to offer the “Made in Bangladesh” event will step up beginning of September. Read More >
C and C Enterprise is the United States agency for Highlead sewing machines. These high-quality machines are available for your sewing needs and are sold only through local dealers and distributors. If you want more information on the Highlead brand, please feel free to contact us. www.candcenterprise.com
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In 2021, Merrow, a 183-year-old, 8th-generation family-owned company based in Fall River, Massachusetts, with centuries-long expertise in sewing and textiles, expanded its wholesale supply business by acquiring the assets and business operations of Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC. Through this acquisition, Merrow positions itself as the largest wholesale supplier of technical parts and supply items for the sewn products industry in the Western Hemisphere.
Superior Sewing will be run as an independent company with its Headquarters in Fall River, Massachusetts, and offices in Miami and Los Angeles. It is fully committed to providing independent dealers and distributors worldwide with extraordinary customer service, one-stop shopping, and the most extensive portfolio of in-stock products in its market.
Americas 21st — all-in-one supplier for Sewing Manufacturing Equipment, Automation, Training, Design, and Services!
OECD Study: Latest Trends in Jobs and Wages: Stabilized Labor Markets
By Yvonne Heinen-Foudeh, Senior International Correspondent
The Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD) is an international organisation that works to build better policies for better lives. Their goal is to shape policies that foster prosperity, equality, opportunity, and well-being for all. They draw on 60 years of experience and insights to better prepare the world of tomorrow. Read More >
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Supply Chain
H&M Begins Exit from Myanmar
The fast fashion giant, which sources materials from 26 suppliers and 39 factories in the country, is leaving amid concerns over labor rights. H&M has begun the process of exiting Myanmar, the company confirmed to Fashion Dive.
The Sweden-based fast-fashion giant sources materials from 26 suppliers and 39 factories in Myanmar, according to the supply chain disclosure on its website. China, with 375 suppliers and 421 factories, and Bangladesh, with 137 suppliers and 227 factories, are the company’s largest manufacturing bases.
Myanmar has been under military rule since February 2021, when a junta seized control, deposing the elected government. Read More >
Factory Strikes Flare Up in China as Economic Woes Deepen
By Marrian Zhou, Nikkei Staff Writer
A flurry of worker protest videos have surfaced on Douyin, the Chinese version of TikTok, in recent months as slowing demand and supply chain shifts heap pressure on the country's factories.
Earlier this year, a user named Jingjing's Memory posted a video of factory workers standing in front of the gate of Huijuchang Textile in the city of Jiangyin. Text overlaid on the footage reads, "The place I worked at for over 20 years went out of business, and now I have no social security and no money."
This video is just one of dozens collected into a "Strike Map" compiled by China Labour Bulletin, a nonprofit organization advocating for blue-collar workers. The map shows worker protests and strikes across the mainland, each marked with reasons for protests, the number of demonstrators, and screenshots of social media evidence. Read More >
Sustainability
The LYCRA Company Launches a New Intellectual Property Enforcement initiative to Support FitSense™ Technology
The LYCRA Company, a global leader in developing innovative and sustainable fiber and technology solutions for the apparel and personal care industries, announced an intellectual property enforcement initiative in support of LYCRA® FitSense™ technology.
LYCRA® FitSense™ Technology is an aqueous dispersion of the LYCRA® brand polymer which can be printed onto fabrics and garments to give a localized power boost, resulting in shaping and compression benefits. It has been successfully adopted by both local China and leading international brands and retailers. Read More >
How Messe Frankfurt’s Textile Trade Shows Support the SDGs
By Sourcing Journal and Yahoo!Life
Olaf Schmidt speaking at the Conscious Fashion and Lifestyle Network’s annual meeting.
Among the United Nations’ Sustainable Development Goals is a call for “global partnership.” Trade event organizer Messe Frankfurt, the United Nations Conscious Fashion and Lifestyle Network, and the UN Office for Partnerships are exemplifying this concept through a collaboration that raises awareness for the SDGs at international fairs.
Sustainability has been showcased at Messe Frankfurt’s 50-plus Texpertise textile shows for the last 15 years, but this partnership has expanded these efforts. At events, including the recent Texworld NYC show, the SDGs are highlighted through panels, press conferences, podcasts, and activations such as booths and photo walls. Since the alliance began in 2019, it has reached more than 21,000 exhibitors, 508,000 show attendees, and 6,250 members of the media across eight countries. Social media outreach has also engaged 945,000 followers. Read More >
Alpine Fit Joins 1% for the Planet and Becomes Climate Neutral Certified
Alpine Fit, an outdoor apparel company known for its adventure apparel made in the USA and Alaska, proudly announces its recent partnership with 1% for the Planet and its achievement of climate-neutral certified status.
Anchorage, Alaska-based Alpine Fit’s kit of adventure-ready apparel and accessories is designed with sustainability, longevity, and the environment in mind. From its recycled materials, and plastic-free packaging, to waste-reducing production methods and offering repairs. These significant milestones and business practices reinforce Alpine Fit’s commitment to sustainability and climate change solutions.
1% for the Planet PartnershipAlpine Fit is excited to join 1% for the Planet, pledging to donate 1% of all annual sales, to support nonprofit organizations focused on the environment. “We are excited that 43 Alaskan nonprofits are environmental partners of 1% for the Planet. We can contribute locally as part of the national and global efforts to address climate change. With our encouragement Alaska Trails became a member ensuring they could be one of our recipients” says Jen Loofbourrow, Founding Owner of Alpine Fit. Read More >
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Industry Events
38th World Fashion Convention
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The IAF (International Apparel Federation) and SPESA (the Sewn Products Equipment Suppliers of the Americas) will be hosting the 2023 World Fashion Convention edition of its annual Convention with the support of AAFA, the American Apparel and Footwear Association on October 22-25, 2023, in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania (USA).
The theme of the 38th World Fashion Convention is “Our Industry in Transition: Building Stronger, Smarter and More Sustainable Supply Chains.” This event will bring together leaders from across the global apparel supply chain, including U.S., Canadian, and European brands; (Latin) American, European, African, and Asian manufacturers; as well as solution and technology providers, educators, and policymakers. Many of the Convention’s expected guests are company owners and leaders of industry associations. All attendees will have the opportunity to network, learn, and engage in a valuable collaboration designed to address some of the industry’s most pressing challenges and opportunities.
Tom Glaser will join as a keynote speakerTom Glaser brings to the table decades of industry insight and expertise. His career began at Phillips-Van Heusen (PVH), where he held sales and sourcing management positions within the company’s North America and Asia divisions. He would later serve as Vice President of Sourcing and Operations for various brands of PVH. Most recently, Glaser held the role of Chief Operations Officer of Tapestry, Inc., a leading New York-based house of modern luxury accessories and lifestyle brands including Coach, Kate Spade, and Stuart Weitzman. The majority of Mr. Glaser’s career was spent at VF Corporation, one of the world’s largest apparel, footwear, and accessories companies. He joined VF in 2001 as Managing Director, VF Asia Ltd Sourcing in Hong Kong, where he played a key role in further diversifying and expanding VF’s global sourcing network in support of the company’s growing portfolio of brands.
In 2006, Mr. Glaser was named President, Supply Chain, Europe/Asia. In 2010, he was promoted to Vice President, Global Operations, a role that he held until being appointed to his most recent position as President, Supply Chain, in January 2012 where he was responsible for the oversight of all of the company’s global manufacturing, sourcing, and operations.
The theme of the 38th World Fashion Convention is “Our Industry in Transition: Building Stronger, Smarter and More Sustainable Supply Chains.” This event will bring together leaders from across the global apparel supply chain, including U.S., Canadian, and European brands; (Latin) American, European, African, and Asian manufacturers; as well as solution and technology providers, educators, and policymakers. Many of the Convention’s expected guests are company owners and leaders of industry associations. All attendees will have the opportunity to network, learn, and engage in a valuable collaboration designed to address some of the industry’s most pressing challenges and opportunities.
Tom Glaser will join as a keynote speakerTom Glaser brings to the table decades of industry insight and expertise. His career began at Phillips-Van Heusen (PVH), where he held sales and sourcing management positions within the company’s North America and Asia divisions. He would later serve as Vice President of Sourcing and Operations for various brands of PVH. Most recently, Glaser held the role of Chief Operations Officer of Tapestry, Inc., a leading New York-based house of modern luxury accessories and lifestyle brands including Coach, Kate Spade, and Stuart Weitzman. The majority of Mr. Glaser’s career was spent at VF Corporation, one of the world’s largest apparel, footwear, and accessories companies. He joined VF in 2001 as Managing Director, VF Asia Ltd Sourcing in Hong Kong, where he played a key role in further diversifying and expanding VF’s global sourcing network in support of the company’s growing portfolio of brands.
In 2006, Mr. Glaser was named President, Supply Chain, Europe/Asia. In 2010, he was promoted to Vice President, Global Operations, a role that he held until being appointed to his most recent position as President, Supply Chain, in January 2012 where he was responsible for the oversight of all of the company’s global manufacturing, sourcing, and operations.
Mohammed Yusuf Amdani Bai added to the speaker line-up
Mohammed Yusuf Amdani Bai, GK Global Chairman and Forbes Books Author, has been added to the impressive speaker line-up. Mr. Amdani is a successful businessman, visionary, entrepreneur, and investor. Originally from Pakistan, Mr. Amdani traces his roots to a background in the textile and yarn-spinning industry. In the early 1990s, he expanded his family business to Honduras where he started a company called Pride Manufacturing that produced clothing to be exported to the U.S. Today, the organization, now known as GK Global, has an international presence, extending into Central America, the Caribbean, Mexico, and the U.S., operating in the textile, lifestyle, technology, agriculture, and real estate industries.
In addition to his work with GK Global, Mr. Amdani also founded the GK Foundation, an organization focused on health, education, nutrition, and sustainability for low-income and vulnerable populations.
“This is the first time the World Fashion Convention has been held in the U.S. in more than twenty years,” said Ed Gribbin, SPESA Chairman and IAF Treasurer. “Having someone like Tom Glaser join as one of the event’s keynote speakers is a great way to showcase where the industry has been and where the industry is heading here in the Americas, and also abroad. He is a notable veteran of the industry who understands end-to-end supply chains in the U.S., Asia, and Europe, and is the perfect person to kick off the Convention with insights from his decades-long career.” “To say that Mr. Amdani is dedicated to the future of our industry would be a vast understatement,” said Gribbin, who will join Mr. Amdani on stage for a fireside chat. “He is one of the most impressive businessmen I know, having had a pulse on major industry needs — like sustainable manufacturing practices and workforce development — before others did. He’s laid a path for industry stakeholders to follow, especially across the Western Hemisphere, and I look forward to sitting down with him to discuss where we all go from here.”
“This is the first time the World Fashion Convention has been held in the U.S. in more than twenty years,” said Ed Gribbin, SPESA Chairman and IAF Treasurer. “Having someone like Tom Glaser join as one of the event’s keynote speakers is a great way to showcase where the industry has been and where the industry is heading here in the Americas, and also abroad. He is a notable veteran of the industry who understands end-to-end supply chains in the U.S., Asia, and Europe, and is the perfect person to kick off the Convention with insights from his decades-long career.” “To say that Mr. Amdani is dedicated to the future of our industry would be a vast understatement,” said Gribbin, who will join Mr. Amdani on stage for a fireside chat. “He is one of the most impressive businessmen I know, having had a pulse on major industry needs — like sustainable manufacturing practices and workforce development — before others did. He’s laid a path for industry stakeholders to follow, especially across the Western Hemisphere, and I look forward to sitting down with him to discuss where we all go from here.”
IFAI Expo is Now Advanced Textiles Expo
November 1-3, 2023
Orange County Convention Center
Orlando, Florida USA
The Advanced Textiles Expo is organized by the Advanced Textiles Association (ATA). For a century, IFAI Expo has been the industrial fabrics industry’s flagship show. As the premier textiles event, Expo is the place where industry stakeholders and leaders connect, learn, and make purchases in order to grow their businesses. Connect with industry experts and peers, discover new products and applications, and advance your business with insights on market trends. Registration goes live in the spring of 2023.
FEBRATEX 2024
August 20–23, 2024Vila Germânica ParkBlumenau, Santa CatarinaBrazil
With 35,000+ square meters of exhibition area serving all textile/apparel sectors, FEBRATEX 2024 brings to the textile scene innovations and technologies from national and international exhibitors.