The NEEDLE'S EYE... Trends and Technologies Driving the Sewn Products Industry
The NEEDLE'S EYE!
September 2026
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Out of the Past
Needle’s Eye Front Cover —AUGUST-SEPTEMBER 1981
- Styles of the Clothing We Wear (or Wore Back in ’81)
Men’s Suits
Over the years, styles of men’s suits have fluctuated considerably; the pendulum of customer taste will undoubtedly continue to revive the double-breasted suit.
Meanwhile, the sewing equipment used to produce these suits has continued to advance in design.
One of the earliest major advances in men’s suit construction came with the Lewis blindstitch machine in the early 1920s, eliminating many expensive and time-consuming handstitching operations.
The future will certainly see long-forgotten design elements revived in men’s suits, but the machines used to make them will always represent the latest in technological design.
Blind stitching remains a foundational technique in modern men's tailored clothing, both in commercial RTW (ready-to-wear) manufacturing and high-end bespoke tailoring. It secures hems and structural linings internally so that no thread shows on the exterior face fabric. A blind stitch creates an invisible, clean finish that hides thread lines. It keeps fabrics smooth, reduces bulk at the edges, and allows garments to move naturally without pulling or puckering.
More About the Blindstitch Machine
Early machines were specialized industrial units built by the Lewis Invisible Stitch Machine Company of St. Louis, Missouri. They revolutionized garment manufacturing by automating blind stitching, invisible hems, and button sewing, and eliminating visible exterior stitches.
The early Lewis stitch sewing machines were specialty industrial machines built primarily for the garment trade to perform invisible blind stitching and heavy-duty, single-thread chain-stitch button sewing.
Key Characteristics • Function: Designed to create hidden hems (blind stitching) or fasten flat and shank buttons securely without the thread showing through on the garment's outer face. • Stitch Type: Utilized single-thread chain stitches or specialized lockstitch variations that only pierced or caught a fraction of the top layer of fabric. • Design & Build: Featured heavy-duty cast metal frames with distinct crinkle finishes and multiple localized oil ports to maintain high-speed factory operations. Key Benefits of a Blind Stitch • Clean Look: Stitches stay hidden on the face of the fabric. • Flexible Hold: The thread stretches slightly with the fabric. • Less Bulk: It keeps lapels, hems, and cuffs thin and flat. • Hand-Finished Feel: High-end suits use it to show fine tailoring quality. Where Tailors Use It • Trouser Hems: Bottom edges look neat without visible lines. • Jacket Cuffs: Sleeve ends stay smooth and sharp. • Lapel Roll: It helps inner layers shape the collar gently.
Zünd cutters are entirely modular; the configuration possibilities are virtually endless. The Product Finder helps you find what you need faster. Find the cutter that suits you.
Visit www.zund.com to discover the latest Zünd innovations in industrial digital cutting technology: specialized tooling for a perfect cut, no matter what materials go into your sewn products, a full range of hardware and software options all geared toward easy, efficient workflow automation. Zünd has it all! What’s more, multifunctional cutting systems from Zünd are modular by design and easily adaptable as your cutting needs grow or change. Find the cutting solution perfectly tailored to your needs, present and future!
Contact Zund America anytime for a personal demonstration, or visit us in 2026 in person at CamX, September 21-24, Georgia World Congress Center, Atlanta, GA • Printing United Expo, September 23-25, Las Vegas Convention Center, Las Vegas, NV • SEMA Show, November 3-6, Las Vegas Convention Center, Las Vegas, NV.
Zünd cutters are entirely modular, the configuration possibilities virtually endless. The Product Finder helps you find what you are looking for more quickly.
Find the cutter that suits you.
Industry Opinion
Are Higher Tariffs Going to Be a New Reality?
By Nironjan Roy, Certified Anti-Money Laundering Specialist and Banker
The trade war—which U.S. President Donald Trump, after coming to the White House for a second term, declared by imposing higher tariffs—is neither ending nor easing.
Over the last two years, threats to impose higher tariffs, similar responses from counterparts, negotiations, signing off on some agreements, and even court cases have all centered on the higher-tariffs issue, but the situation has not been normal. Rather, the new wave of higher tariffs has escalated, as recent negotiations with Canada have failed, inviting higher tariffs from both countries.
When President Trump was moving ahead with the decision to raise tariffs, a perception developed that they would end after his departure, which is now gradually fading.
Many business leaders now believe the higher tariffs imposed by President Trump will not end soon; instead, they may persist for a long time and become a regular feature of cross-border trade. However, some people think otherwise and argue that the situation may change in 2029, when President Trump's tenure ends and a new administration takes office. But some people who oppose this idea say that all politicians, regardless of party affiliation, need money, and President Trump has created a strong source for it; future presidents will follow. As reported in the media, one U.S. business leader was asked what will happen after Trump leaves office, and he responded, “Who knows?” He further said, “Politicians need to raise funds to pay for all the things that they do, and it’s hard for them to look at a stream of revenue and turn it down.”
Foundations Before Technology: Why Technical Knowledge and Emerging Technologies Must Evolve Together
By Joe Altieri, FIT Adjunct Professor, Mentor, Educator, and Trainer
C and C Enterprise has teamed up with JACK, one of the world’s finest industrial sewing machine manufacturers, to form Jack of the Americas. Jack of the Americas distributes JACK machines throughout North America, Mexico, Central America, and the Caribbean Basin. When you buy from Jack of The Americas, we don’t just ship you a box! We help you get set up and answer any questions you may have! With over 100 years of combined experience in the industrial sewn products industry, we are proud to say that we are one of the world’s leading industrial sewing products authorities and are here to serve you! Not sure if Jack is right for you? Click on the button below for a short video showing off some of our machines. Watch it and see what Jack can do for you!
Since 1898, Consew has designed and manufactured the most reliable machines in the sewing industry. Today, Consew has one of the largest varieties of sewing, cutting, and pressing equipment; as well as an extensive line of supplies related to the sewn products industry. From standard walking foot machines for upholstery to specialty 4 needle lockstitch machines for parachutes, from long-arm zig-zag (up to 30”) machines for boat sails to extra heavy-duty machines for webbing, Consew has it all. Our machines are well-designed for sewing leather, canvas, shoes, saddles, mattresses, tents, tarps, and sails, as well as jeans and other garments. With offices in New Jersey, Miami, and Los Angeles, as well as a distribution network throughout the world, Consew can quickly supply and service the machines you need.
Industry News
U.S. Launches $480 Million Textile Program to Bolster Defense Textile Manufacturing
The United States is launching a major new textile manufacturing initiative worth up to US$480 million. The move comes as it looks to modernize domestic production and reduce weaknesses in its textile supply chain. This is a landmark award — and a major opportunity to strengthen U.S. textile manufacturing, innovation, and the domestic supply chain.
North Carolina State University has been selected to lead FutureTEX, a ten-year program initially backed by US$36 million in first-year funding and carrying a potential funding ceiling of US$480 million over the decade.
Why NC State?
This is particularly significant for North Carolina because the state has a long history in textiles. At the same time, NC State's Wilson College of Textiles is a major center for textile engineering, materials science, and manufacturing research.
The Textile Futures Institute
The Textile Futures Institute will be housed in the Textile Technology Center at Gaston College’s Kimbrell Campus in Belmont, North Carolina, with core partners at NC State University’s Wilson College of Textiles in Raleigh, Drexel University Center for Functional Fabrics in Philadelphia, University of Massachusetts Lowell, Georgia Tech in Atlanta, and Industrial Sewing and Innovation Center (ISAIC) in Detroit. The initiative brings together government, university, and nonprofit partners to advance textile manufacturing technologies for military and domestic applications. FutureTEX will champion workforce development and modernize facilities and equipment to increase U.S. competitiveness. Read More>
Diamond Needle Corp., Founded in 1951, is one of the world’s largest distributors of sewing machine needles. Our alliance with ORGAN NEEDLE CO. of Japan, as their exclusive North American distributor, gives us the backing of the world’s leading quality maker of sewing machine needles.
ISAIC Announces Partnership with TUKATECH
The Industrial Sewing and Innovation Center (ISAIC), a Detroit, Michigan-based nonprofit and national resource for textile and apparel manufacturing, has announced a partnership with TUKATECH, a global fashion technology solutions provider, to launch a TUKAcenter in Detroit.
The TUKAcenter will provide brands, designers, and entrepreneurs access to leading digital tools and expertise, creating new opportunities for product development and apparel manufacturing in Detroit. By lowering barriers for startups and growing brands and expanding our support for major national companies, the TUKAcenter will strengthen Detroit’s apparel ecosystem and attract new business to the region.
Read More>
The Merrow Group consists of three unique divisions, all designed to support and accelerate the growth of soft-goods manufacturing. One of these divisions is the Wholesale Group: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply. Superior, the largest wholesale supplier of more than 72,000 products to sewing factories across North, Central, and South America, plays a vital role in supporting the broader manufacturing ecosystem. In an industry where precision, speed, and reliability are crucial for maintaining competitive production, having access to in-stock items is not just convenient; it is essential. Superior operates a network of 1,600 resellers that support approximately 70,000 factories across North, Central, and South America. This extensive network enables Superior to swiftly introduce new technologies and products that can significantly enhance the efficiency and competitiveness of soft goods manufacturing.
NSF Support Bolsters Textile Innovation, NC State Research
The Textile Innovation Engine of North Carolina has received $16 million in renewed funding from the National Science Foundation (NSF). The Textile Innovation Engine is a research initiative of The Industrial Commons and supports more than a dozen projects led by North Carolina State University (NC State) researchers. The funding could be extended to up to $45 million over three years.
The Textile Innovation Engine was launched in 2024 to support textile manufacturing, bolster supply chain resilience and foster the development of next-generation textile technologies.
The Textile Innovation Engine was launched in 2024 to support textile manufacturing, bolster supply chain resilience and foster the development of next-generation textile technologies.
“The Textile Innovation Engine continues to help the NC State research community connect with projects that bring meaningful benefits to North Carolina and the nation,” says Krista Walton, vice chancellor for research and innovation, NC State. “Our researchers are developing innovative solutions ranging from new wound-healing materials to embedded sensors that ensure seatbelts and load straps aren’t strained to the point of failure. We’re eager to continue translating research into real-world impact.”
Researchers from NC State’s Wilson College of Textiles are leading 19 of the Textile Innovation Engine’s research projects. These range from converting used military uniforms into new yarns and fabrics to transforming cotton textile waste into bio-based feedstock for 3D printing. NC State researchers are also involved in four translation projects, collaborating with startup companies to help move textile technologies closer to commercial viability. Read More>
“The Textile Innovation Engine continues to help the NC State research community connect with projects that bring meaningful benefits to North Carolina and the nation,” says Krista Walton, vice chancellor for research and innovation, NC State. “Our researchers are developing innovative solutions ranging from new wound-healing materials to embedded sensors that ensure seatbelts and load straps aren’t strained to the point of failure. We’re eager to continue translating research into real-world impact.”
Researchers from NC State’s Wilson College of Textiles are leading 19 of the Textile Innovation Engine’s research projects. These range from converting used military uniforms into new yarns and fabrics to transforming cotton textile waste into bio-based feedstock for 3D printing. NC State researchers are also involved in four translation projects, collaborating with startup companies to help move textile technologies closer to commercial viability. Read More>
C and C Enterprise is the United States agency for Highlead sewing machines. These high-quality machines are available for your sewing needs and are sold only through local dealers and distributors. If you want more information on the Highlead brand, please feel free to contact us. www.candcenterprise.com
Henderson Sewing Machine Co, founded in 1968, is a global supplier of industrial sewing machines, sewing machine parts, and custom automated sewing machines for the SEWING PRODUCTS INDUSTRY. We have grown by offering customers the highest quality products at competitive prices with superior customer service. We also have a cutting-edge engineering team that designs custom automated systems to fill any need you may have.
QIMA: Nearshoring in Theory
Last quarter, the closure of the Strait of Hormuz disrupted sourcing across Asia. This quarter's data shows how buyers actually responded, and it's not the diversification story you might have expected.
The latest Barometer, built on QIMA's global inspection and audit data, breaks down what's actually shifting and what to prepare for next.
Here's what the data is telling us:• Nearshoring stalled, not scaled. Nearshoring and reshoring made up just 7% of North American service volumes and 11% in the EU this quarter. Both are below 2025 averages, even though roughly half of US and EU businesses made plans to actively pursue it.• China becoming the fallback, not the exception. As fuel shortages tied to the Hormuz crisis strained capacity in Vietnam and Bangladesh, Western buyers pushed orders back toward China: its share of North America's inspection and audit volumes hit a six-quarter high of 35%.• Emerging-market buyers are doubling down on China. China now accounts for 78% of emerging-market inspection demand outside Asia and 81% in South and Latin America, specifically deepening the exact concentration risk diversification was supposed to reduce.• The quality gap is widening, not narrowing. Electronics and electrical orders placed by emerging-market buyers failed to meet AQL 26% of the time so far this year, versus 8% for developed-market buyers, sometimes from the same factories. Read the QIMA Q3 2026 Barometer.
Technologies
Textile Factory 7.0: Ecosystem behind Europe's future T&A manufacturing
By Yvonne Heinen-Foudeh, Senior International Correspondent
Mid-year 2026, the promising model project, known as Textile Factory 7.0 (T7), is being established and seeks to demonstrate how future textile production can become simultaneously digital, automated, circular, and economically viable.
The central venue is the historic German textile city of Mönchengladbach and home of the globally renowned Faculty of Textile and Clothing Technology – the largest department of the forward-thinking Hochschule Niederrhein (HSNR – University of Applied Sciences). Read More>
Far more than a conventional research program: Textile Factory 7.0 is intended as a real-world laboratory where new technologies, manufacturing concepts, and business models can be tested under industrial conditions. Strong partnership structures enable building industrial ecosystems. AI-created visual using ChatGPT Pro.
Sustainability
As Europe Bans Destroying Unsold Clothes, Morocco Prepares for the Ripple Effects.
Europe’s fashion industry can no longer quietly burn or dump piles of unsold clothes. As of July 19, large fashion companies across the European Union are banned from destroying unsold clothing, footwear and accessories, marking one of the bloc’s biggest moves yet to curb waste.
At first glance, the new rules seem like a European issue. But they could also have ripple effects for Morocco, a country closely tied to Europe’s textile industry both as a clothing manufacturer and as a destination for second-hand clothing imports.
The ban is part of the EU’s Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR), which aims to make products more durable and reduce waste. Read More>
Supply Chain
Mexico Takes Additional Action to Thwart Illegal Textile, Apparel and Footwear Imports.
The Mexican government recently unveiled additional measures to crack down on illegal imports of textile, apparel, and footwear articles, including products of Chinese Mainland and Hong Kong origin.
Specifically, Mexico’s Tax Administration Service (SAT) recently amended its foreign trade rules for 2026 as well as various annexes thereof (including in particular Annex 29) to prohibit most, if not all, textile, apparel, and footwear products from taking advantage of strategic in-bond facilities (“recintos fiscalizados estratégicos”, or RFEs).
These are facilities located within the constituency of any Mexican customs office, belonging to any individual, that are enabled for the temporary introduction of goods into Mexico under the in-bond facility customs regime without being subject to tariff or non-tariff regulations. Read More>
Industry Events
Techtextil North America
August 4-6, 2026Raleigh Convention Center
Raleigh, North Carolina
Techtextil North America, the U.S.'s only trade show dedicated to technical textiles and nonwovens, is returning to the Raleigh Convention Center on August 4-6 in 2026. Exhibitors at Techtextil North America 2026 are invited to submit their latest innovations for the Innovation Awards, which recognize advancements in materials, technologies, products, and applications across the technical textiles and nonwovens industry.
Join SEAMS for its Fall Networking Conference in New Orleans, LA. You'll have a fabulous time and embrace the culture of New Orleans at this conference. Staying in the heart of New Orleans, you will be right on the corner of Canal and Bourbon Streets. You'll have a wonderful reception at the famous Antoine’s, a WOVEN Women’s Soiree, and with an extra night’s stay, you can join us for a Tour and Dinner at Mardi Gras World. SEAMS will, of course, have our standard array of informative and enjoyable line-up of speakers and invaluable Networking opportunities. Don’t miss out – Register Now!
SEAMS Fall Networking Conference • Astor Crowne Plaza • New Orleans, LA • September 15 - 17, 2026
https://seams.org/event/seams-fall-networking-conference-3/