The NEEDLE'S EYE... Trends and Technologies Driving the Sewn Products Industry
Needle's Eye Front Cover August 1950
The Needle's Eye - August 1950
Mid-Century Cover (1930 – 1940)
In commemorating the mid-century, the front cover of this issue recalls some of the highlights of the decade 1930-1940.
This was a period of marked contrast to the preceding decade. Unemployment, business failures, and "hard times" were worries shared by all. Government controls and regulations increased. PWA and WPA came into being.
In the 1930s and 1940s, during the Great Depression in the United States, the acronyms PWA and WPA represented significant government initiatives aimed at providing economic relief and creating jobs.
Huge power dams were built. New post offices popped up in cities and villages throughout the country. Outstanding events of the period were the Chicago Century of Progress (1933-34) and the New York World's Fair (1939) which attracted visitors from all over the world. But, by the end of the decade, the clouds of war were again covering Europe as Hitler started his march for conquest.
Industrially, the period was one of continued advancement. New machines were introduced, and important developments were made.
Not the least among the events of the decade was the launching of The Needle's Eye with its first 16-page issue in May of 1930. By December of 1939, it had grown to 32 pages.
Industry Technologies
Seams and Stitches (Part 2): Taking A Closer Look at Seams and Stitchings
In the previous issue of The Needle's Eye, we discussed the system devised by the Federal Specifications Board. We focused primarily on stitches. In the second part of this two-part article, we turn our attention to the classification of seams and stitching.
What is a seam or a stitching? A seam may be defined as a series of stitches used to join two or more plies of material. Most apparel operations are grouped under a seam classification. A stitching, on the other hand, is a series of stitches used to finish the edge or for decorative purposes on a single ply of material. Serging and hemming operations are common examples of stitchings. It is important to remember not to confuse stitchings with stitch type classifications.
The federal specifications booklet divides seams into four classes: Superimposed Seams (SS); Lapped Seams (LS); Bound Seams (BS); and Flat Seams (FS). Stitchings are divided into two classes: Edge Finish (EF) and Ornamental Stitchings (OS). Within each of these classes are several types which are indicated by lowercase letters, such as SSa or LSb. Read More >
C and C Enterprise has teamed up with JACK, one of the world’s finest industrial sewing machine manufacturers, to form Jack of the Americas. Jack of the Americas distributes JACK machines throughout North America, Mexico, Central America, and the Caribbean Basin. When you buy from Jack of The Americas, we don’t just ship you a box! We help you get set up and answer any questions you may have! With over 100 years of combined experience in the industrial sewn products industry, we are proud to say that we are one of the world’s leading industrial sewing products authorities and are here to serve you! Not sure if Jack is right for you? Click on the button below for a short video showing off some of our machines. Watch it and see what Jack can do for you!
1st ITSCDC@Textile faculty University of Applied Science: Promoting Technology Transfer
by Yvonne Heinen-Foudeh, Senior International Correspondent
Comparison of five A-line skirts, size 38 in different fabric types from the library - physical vs. virtual. Digital fabrics are identified in the Lectra (Swatchbook) database.
Source: Hogeschool Gent
The foundation of any digitized processes, production-related and from cradle-to-grave for finished goods, lies in the collection and targeted processing of valuable data. In that regard, the Textile and Apparel faculty of the University of Applied Science with the International Textile Supply Chain Digitalization Conference (ITSCDC), the very first of its kind, arranged a unique setting at their Mönchengladbach, Germany campus - back in September.
Over three enlightening “Summer School” days, academic and industrial experts offered high-level research and industry presentation sessions – along with workshops to discuss the academic, educational, and industrial challenges, needs, and major achievements focusing on textile scenarios.
Transformation toward a fully integrated digital way of working is possible
Taking advantage of this fact is simply without an alternative for any format of future-oriented business models. Because of the almost limitless possibilities of design and product development, engineering as a whole, manufacturing, merchandising, and marketing, it is not so much the feasibility down to the last detail that causes concern. It is more of a knowledge transfer of what technology has to offer now, the results of dedicated R&D at the fingertips of the “makers”, and those of ready goods as well as tech suppliers. Read More >
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The Pathfinder M-Series® range of automated cutting machines is known for precision, very high productivity, reliability, and lowest power consumption. All 16 models are easily configured to suit most cutting applications, and, thanks to clever design, Pathfinder cutters require very little maintenance to continually deliver exceptional cut quality over a long working life.
Industry News
U.S. Department of Commerce Invests $1.1 Million to Support Development of the Textile Manufacturing Industry in Dallas, North Carolina
U.S. Secretary of Commerce Gina Raimondo announced the Department’s Economic Development Administration (EDA) is awarding a $1.1 million grant to Gaston College in Dallas, North Carolina, to support the expansion of the school’s Textile Technology Center.
This grant will provide for the purchase of new equipment to support the needs of existing textile and apparel firms, strengthening the talent pipeline, and promoting entrepreneurial opportunities in a region impacted by changes in the energy economy. This EDA investment will be matched with $1.1 million in local funds and is expected to create or retain nearly 160 jobs, according to grantee estimates.
“President Biden’s Investing in America agenda empowers all communities – including those impacted by shifts in the energy sector – to grow and diversify their economies,” said Secretary of Commerce Gina Raimondo. “This EDA investment will support industrial workforce development, helping to fill critical, in-demand jobs in the region.” Read More >
SCHMETZ...your manufacturer of household and industrial sewing machine needles. The product and service spectrum of SCHMETZ covers a complete range of the individual requirements of over 47 sectors in the sewing and textile processing industry, as well as for workshops and the hobby sector. Placing the highest demands on the materials used, the processing techniques, and product quality, combined with the goal of developing tailored solutions for every application, are both the focus and the mission statement of the company.
Tukatech Partnership with EcoShot by Metail
For almost two decades, Tukatech has strived to help apparel companies eliminate physical samples from the product development process with their industry-leading 3D sample-making software, TUKA3D.
With their new partnership with EcoShot by Metail, current and future TUKA3D users can showcase true-to-life 3D virtual garments on photorealistic digital models.
Tukatech has been the only 3D fashion technology company proven to reduce fit and look samples, but physical samples were often still used for sales and photography. With TUKA3D’s integrations with EcoShot, this last hurdle has been overcome, with results that mimic what can be achieved with costly traditional photoshoots. Read More >
Intelligent Textiles
Artificial Intelligence
A Mango designer using their custom AI tool.
The Mango fashion company developed its own AI to design clothing. Nicknamed Lisa, the tool also identifies consumer trends and supports customer service.
Designing prints, measuring consumer acceptance, and identifying emerging trends are complex tasks, but artificial intelligence (AI) tools like ChatGPT have been rapidly gaining popularity among companies looking to streamline their processes. Mango is one such company that recognizes the value of AI and has incorporated it into its operations.
The Spanish fashion company has developed a conversational generative AI platform called Lisa to design its collections and support customer service processes. It took nine months to create the tool, which enables them to make and evaluate successful designs. Read More >
Diamond Needle Corp., Founded in 1951, is one of the world’s largest distributors of sewing machine needles. Our alliance with ORGAN NEEDLE CO. of Japan, as their exclusive North American distributor, gives us the backing of the world’s leading quality maker of sewing machine needles.
World of Fashion
Axiom Space, Prada Join Forces on Tech, Design for NASA’s Next-Gen Lunar Spacesuits
In the first groundbreaking partnership between an Italian luxury fashion house and a commercial space company, Axiom Space, industry leader and architect of the world’s first commercial space station, announces a collaboration with Prada on NASA's lunar spacesuits for the Artemis III mission.
Prada’s engineers will work alongside the Axiom Space systems team throughout the design process, developing solutions for materials and design features to protect against the unique challenge of space and the lunar environment.
As the first crewed lunar landing since Apollo 17 in December 1972, this Artemis mission, planned for 2025, will also be the first to place a woman on the Moon.
"We are thrilled to partner with Prada on the Axiom Extravehicular Mobility Unit (AxEMU) spacesuit," said Michael Suffredini, CEO of Axiom Space. "Prada's technical expertise with raw materials, manufacturing techniques, and innovative design concepts will bring advanced technologies instrumental in ensuring not only the comfort of astronauts on the lunar surface but also the much-needed human factors considerations absent from legacy spacesuits."
Read More >
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C and C Enterprise is the United States agency for Highlead sewing machines. These high-quality machines are available for your sewing needs and are sold only through local dealers and distributors. If you want more information on the Highlead brand, please feel free to contact us. www.candcenterprise.com
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In 2021, Merrow, a 183-year-old, 8th-generation family-owned company based in Fall River, Massachusetts, with centuries-long expertise in sewing and textiles, expanded its wholesale supply business by acquiring the assets and business operations of Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC. Through this acquisition, Merrow positions itself as the largest wholesale supplier of technical parts and supply items for the sewn products industry in the Western Hemisphere.
Superior Sewing will be run as an independent company with its Headquarters in Fall River, Massachusetts, and offices in Miami and Los Angeles. It is fully committed to providing independent dealers and distributors worldwide with extraordinary customer service, one-stop shopping, and the most extensive portfolio of in-stock products in its market.
Americas 21st — all-in-one supplier for Sewing Manufacturing Equipment, Automation, Training, Design, and Services!
95 Years of Film and Fashion History in 480 Pages: “Red Carpet Oscars”
by Yvonne Heinen-Foudeh, Senior International Correspondent
Says world star Cate Blanchett so aptly in her foreword to Dijanne Mulhearn's opus, "The red carpet of the Academy Awards has always seemed to me to be the place where fashion, fine art, and theater intersect, and so there has been no better way to show off the dramatic creations. I also know how much blood, sweat, and tears went into each model."
Indeed there is so much more than fabulous gowns on famous people behind the (formerly) red carpet, rolled out every year by the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences (AMPAS) on the occasion of the awarding of the “Oscars” for the best films of the respective previous year.
The Sidney-based fashion journalist, stylist, and designer collocates this impressively in her illustrated book “Red Carpet Oscars”, and has thus presented a noteworthy compendium of trending costume history. Her comprehensive chronological survey reflects not only the styles and values of each era but displays how the read (in 2022 beige - for once?) carpet has become a platform to make social statements. In this way, the work also opens up a journey through time, through fashion developments in the respective social and political climates. Read More >
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Sustainability
Crystal International Elevates Sustainable Fashion with Industry Partnership and Product Verification
Crystal International Group Limited has been putting unwavering dedication to leading sustainable fashion supply chains globally. To forge joint efforts in advocating sustainability, Crystal International is determined to take part in different industry programs for diverse sustainable actions and product verification, in hopes of fostering global engagement within the industry.
Crystal International plays a vital role in collaborating with other like-minded peers through industry organizations, such as the Partnership for Cleaner Textile (PaCT) program led by International Finance Corporation, the Clean by Design program managed by Apparel Impact Institute, and the Higg Index certified by Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC). Read More >
The Hunt for a New Way to Tackle Clothing Waste
Earlier this year, a satellite photo of a mountain of discarded clothes in Chile's Atacama Desert went viral.
Clearly visible from space, it once again raised questions about the amount of waste the fashion industry is creating, and what we can do about it.
While natural fibers such as cotton and wool will decompose, most manmade fibers, such as polyester and nylon, are not currently biodegradable. They will instead remain in landfills, or where they have been dumped, for decades or even hundreds of years.
However, a US-based scientific organization is continuing work to find a natural way of getting waste polyester and nylon to quickly decompose. Read More >
“KlarTEXt”Project – Initiative with Potential for Global Inspiration: Interdisciplinary Bastion at the Start
by Yvonne Heinen-Foudeh, Senior International Correspondent
Prof. Dr. Maike Rabe chose the Pareto principle to vividly illustrate the crux of both the European and equally the global textile and apparel industry - including the need to act responsibly and sustainably.
The professor for textile finishing and ecology at the international teaching and researching elite faculty for textiles and clothing, the German University of Applied Sciences Niederrhein, at the same time head of the affiliated research institute for textiles and clothing, on the occasion of the kick-off of the cooperation platform “KlarTEXt” (ClearTEXt) in September at the faculty location in Mönchengladbach in front of representatives from industry and research.
The end of extensive mass production and the implementation of all technological options toward on-demand manufacturing forms a decisive lever for improving the correlation here.
Thoroughly prepared over a long period – the project was launched with all partners on board in May of this year – joint action is now underway. The objective of the cooperation platform is to dynamize the sustainably transformative textile industry toward the reduction of raw material consumption, improvement of both the use and the disposal of textile products as well as the minimized release of fibrous microplastics. Read More >
The hourglass as a meaningful ClearTEXt visual stands for the versatile idea input, its filtering, and the never-ending time loop for repeated turning - to the next level.
Industry Events
SPESA Welcomes New Board Member, Announces New Officer Slate, and Presents Inaugural Member Emeritus Awards
During its recent Annual Business Meeting as part of the 38th IAF World Fashion Convention in Philadelphia, PA, the Sewn Products Equipment & Suppliers of the Americas (SPESA) announced the approval of its incoming officers and the election of the Board Class of 2026, which includes a new member of the association’s Board of Directors.
SPESA’s new officers are Mark Hatton, Managing Director, Americas at American & Efird, serving as Chairman of the Board; Daniella Ambrogi, Global Senior Marketing Director of CGS, Inc., as Vice Chairwoman; and Michael Rabin, Sales Director of the Americas at Morgan Tecnica Spa, as Secretary/Treasurer. The newly elected officers will each serve two-year terms. Exiting Chairman Ed Gribbin will continue to serve on the Board as the Immediate Past President.
SPESA also presented the recipients of the inaugural SPESA Member Emeritus awards. 2023 honorees were Dave Gardner (retired: SPESA Managing Director and Editor/Publisher of The Needle's Eye), Benton Gardner (retired: SPESA President), along with Past SPESA Chairmen Lonny Schwartz (retired: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply), Sam Simpson (retired: Gerber Technology), and Al Irvine (retired: American & Efird).
2023 Honorees (L-R): Dave Gardner, Benton Gardner,
Lonny Schwartz, Sam Simpson, Al Irvine
David Handal, General Manager of Agencia J.E. Handal, S.A. de C.V., an authorized distributor for complete lines of industrial sewing, cutting, and finishing equipment as well as spare parts for the apparel industry has joined the SPESA Board of Directors. Read More >
IAF Extends Gem Altan’s Term as President
The 38th World Fashion Convention organized by the International Apparel Federation (IAF) and the Sewn Products Equipment & Suppliers of the Americas (SPESA) in Philadelphia was officially held on Monday-Tuesday, October 23-24.
The IAF General Assembly unanimously accepted the IAF’s Board of Directors proposal to extend the current IAF President’s Cem Altan term with an additional two years.
Mr. Altan is a garment manufacturer (Chief Executive Officer of Cenka Tekstil, Turkey) and is representing the Istanbul Apparel Exporters Association (IHKIB) in the IAF. His term extension reflects the IAF’s strong focus on uniting apparel manufacturers globally and defending their interests.
In his opening speech, he referred to IAF’s mission to enable and promote stronger, smarter, and more sustainable supply chains. He noted that the industry’s needed transition is moving too slowly. A major reason for this is that even though manufacturers often have the tools in hand to make the necessary environmental, social, and financial improvements, they are mostly not sufficiently enabled in the current supply chain- financially or organizationally to use these tools. Read More >
SEAMS Packs ’Em in for Annual Networking Conference at NC State
by Devin Steele, Editor/Publisher, eTextileCommunications
SEAMS’ annual Networking Conference at the StateView Hotel, Autograph Collection on NC State University's Centennial Campus was a grand slam from a variety of perspectives – content, connection, and extracurricular (on and off campus) – according to several attendees.
Held for the first time in Raleigh, NC, the day-and-a-half conference was preceded by a golf tournament on Day 1, and featured for the first time at this event tours of local industry stalwarts. Participants were able to spend a day visiting NC State’s Wilson College of Textiles and Cotton Incorporated, two entities that play a strong role in the textile industry’s success and viability.
Also unique: More than 20 NC State Wilson College of Textiles seniors were invited and attended the gathering to learn more about the broader textile/cut-and-sew/apparel industry beyond the classroom, and many of them noted in their introductions that this was the first conference they had ever attended. Most of them engaged with SEAMS’ members during breaks, and they undoubtedly made some great connections while also collecting numerous takeaways from speakers. Read More >
SEAMS’ President Ron Roach (center), president of Contempora Fabrics is presented a plaque for his service to the association by SEAMS’ Executive Director Will Duncan (L) and SEAMS’ Vice President Britt Moore, vice president of Sales & Customer Support at Minnesota Knitting Mills.
VDMA: Sales Still On Growth Track, Order Intake Declining
The sales of the German manufacturers of Textile Care, Fabric, and Leather Technologies remain on a growth path: in the period January 2023 to August 2023, sales increased by 20 percent in real terms, with sales from Germany up 61 percent year-on-year and from abroad up 9 percent.
New orders, on the other hand, fell 17 percent short of the previous year’s result in the same period, with orders from within Germany down 7 percent and orders from abroad down a full 20 percent. In the most recent three-month period, June to August 2023, new orders fell by as much as 37 percent. Read More >
Elgar Straub, Managing Director of VDMA Textile Care,
Fabric, and Leather Technologies
IACDE International Convention 2023 – Rome: Innovation Unleashed
by Yvonne Heinen-Foudeh, Senior International Correspondent
Everything starts anew where everything invariably begins - along this cognition, the IACDE had chosen the Italian capitol and couture metropolis for its International Convention this year. Over three days the International Association of Clothing Designers and Executives brought together more than 100 members from its cluster organizations throughout Europe, North America, and Asia. Proof indeed that today’s “IACDE Club” — originating from its founding in 1910 in New York’s Madison Square Garden — fully copes with the transition process into modern times. Read More >
IACDE’s Rome Convention underlined the unique potential of getting the actual creators in a mutual work session together with stakeholders along the value chain. Fashion creators, pattern designers, industry leaders, brand representatives, suppliers, experts, and enthusiasts from a total of 12 countries in Rome went into seclusion over three days to mutually learn from each other and discuss trending topics.