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The NEEDLE'S EYE... Trends and Technologies Driving the Sewn Products Industry
The Needle's Eye - April 1970
- The front cover of this issue of THE NEEDLE’S EYE is the second of our 1970 series featuring fibers. This month we take a close look at a fiber that was in legend called the “vegetable lamb”. Today we call it “cotton”.
- An enlarged view of cotton fiber shows it to be flat, ribbon-like, and with a spiral twist. It is because of this twist that the fibers can be spun into a fine thread, and woven into a cloth softer, finer, and therefore cooler in hot weather, than linen or wool.
- The cotton plant requires six or seven months to develop and can thrive only in a temperate climate. It was first discovered, many centuries ago, growing in India and the Central Americas. Two to six feet in height, depending on the variety, each plant contains several bell-shaped flowers. Each flower produces a round, green seed pod called a “cotton boll”. The boll bursts open when ripe to expose black seeds covered by a white downy fiber. Each plant contains buds, flowers, and bursting cotton bolls simultaneously.
- The fluffy cotton fiber, still clinging to each seed, today is picked mechanically and taken to the gin house for seed removal. "Gin” is derived from Eli Whitney’s cotton engine, or "cotton gin”. After the seeds are removed, the cotton fiber is baled and sent to a cotton mill. There the fibers are cleaned and pressed into a loose blanket. This blanket is carded and combed to separate the tangled fibers and align them. The cotton comes from the carding machines in a soft, rope-like roll or “sliver”. When several slivers are simultaneously twisted together and stretched thinner (drafted) in the spinning room, the result is cotton thread. Similar processes produce cotton yarn, which is woven into cotton cloth.
- Read More About the Different Properties and Uses of Cotton Fiber
In 2024 see us at: IBEX – Tampa, FL – October 1-3 • Packex Montreal – Montreal, Canada • November 13-14
Industry Opinion
What Technologies Are Reshaping the Sewn Goods Manufacturing Landscape?
by Frank Henderson, Henderson Sewing Machine Co. and Dave Gardner, The Needle's Eye
- Several technologies are revolutionizing the sewn goods manufacturing industry, increasing efficiency, sustainability, and customization. Following are a few key players.
- Automation and Robotics
- Robotic Sewing Machines: These machines can perform tasks like sewing, cutting, and embroidery with precision and speed, reducing labor costs and increasing productivity. These high-tech machines use advanced sensors, computer vision, and robotic arms to guide needles and thread through textiles.
- Automated Material Handling: Robots can transport materials around factories, minimizing manual labor and reducing the risk of errors. Material handling robots, or automated guided vehicles (AGVs), are designed to move materials and goods efficiently within a warehouse or factory. They use sensors and navigation systems to transport heavy loads with zero or near-zero human intervention. Read More >
Automation and Robotics
C and C Enterprise has teamed up with JACK, one of the world’s finest industrial sewing machine manufacturers, to form Jack of the Americas. Jack of the Americas distributes JACK machines throughout North America, Mexico, Central America, and the Caribbean Basin. When you buy from Jack of The Americas, we don’t just ship you a box! We help you get set up and answer any questions you may have! With over 100 years of combined experience in the industrial sewn products industry, we are proud to say that we are one of the world’s leading industrial sewing products authorities and are here to serve you! Not sure if Jack is right for you? Click on the button below for a short video showing off some of our machines. Watch it and see what Jack can do for you!
The Pathfinder M-Series® range of automated cutting machines is known for precision, very high productivity, reliability, and lowest power consumption. All 16 models are easily configured to suit most cutting applications, and, thanks to clever design, Pathfinder cutters require very little maintenance to continually deliver exceptional cut quality over a long working life.
UpFront with Hohenstein
Hohenstein Focuses on the Interactions Between Humans, Products, and the Environment
by Casey Strauch, U.S Marketing Director of Hohenstein, and Dave Gardner, Editor/Publisher of The Needle’s Eye
Hohenstein is a valuable resource for companies in the textile and related industries, providing testing, certification, applied research, and training services to ensure product quality, safety, and sustainability.
Hohenstein Americas is an Indiana–based subsidiary of Hohenstein Laboratories of Bönnigheim, Germany. Hohenstein has worked for more than 75 years around the globe with more than 1,200 employees who work to help people and the planet with offerings such as testing for harmful substances, quality, performance, and fit. Read More >
Industry Technologies
How AI Is Impacting Legal Issues and Priorities In The Fashion Industry
by Dyan Finguerra-DuCharme, Partner, and Laure Sawaya, Of Counsel, Pryor Cashman LLP
The fashion and textile industries, long known for their emphasis on creativity and innovation, are undergoing a transformative shift due to advancements in artificial intelligence (AI). This technology is not only enhancing design, production, sustainability efforts, manufacturing processes, and consumer experiences, but also reshaping the legal landscape, particularly as it relates to intellectual property protection and enforcement, design development and protection, the ramifications of deep fakes on influencer and celebrity endorsements and collaborations, and how to prepare for all of the above in standard industry contracts going forward.
This article delves into these key areas, examining how AI is impacting the fashion industry and how legal teams can prepare for these shifts.
IP Rights in AI-Generated Workss
AI’s role in generating new designs and textiles is growing. Algorithms can analyze vast datasets of fashion and textile trends and efficiency, historical concerns and demand, and consumer preferences to create innovative new products based on objective data as to market need and feasibility. However, this raises complex questions about IP rights. Traditionally, in the U.S., designers and/or brand owners can obtain various forms of IP rights in their designs, logos, graphics, photographs, brand names (among other things), innovative textiles and/or prints, including trademarks, trade dress, patent, and copyright protections. In the context of AI-generated creations and inventions, whether IP protection is available differs depending on discipline.
Read More >
Dyan Finguerra-DuCharmea partner with Pryor Cashman, serves as the co-chair of the firm’s intellectual property group, providing hands-on, end-to-end service to a diverse roster of clients from AI startups to Fortune 100 brands. She is also co-chair of the fashion group and a member of the litigation and media + entertainment groups.
Laure Sawayaof counsel, is a member of the firm’s intellectual property group, where she helps brands and creators protect, exploit, and enforce their valuable IP rights in the U.S. and throughout the world.
Diamond Needle Corp., Founded in 1951, is one of the world’s largest distributors of sewing machine needles. Our alliance with ORGAN NEEDLE CO. of Japan, as their exclusive North American distributor, gives us the backing of the world’s leading quality maker of sewing machine needles.
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In 2021, Merrow, a 183-year-old, 8th-generation family-owned company based in Fall River, Massachusetts, with centuries-long expertise in sewing and textiles, expanded its wholesale supply business by acquiring the assets and business operations of Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC. Through this acquisition, Merrow positions itself as the largest wholesale supplier of technical parts and supply items for the sewn products industry in the Western Hemisphere.
Superior Sewing will be run as an independent company with its Headquarters in Fall River, Massachusetts, and offices in Miami and Los Angeles. It is fully committed to providing independent dealers and distributors worldwide with extraordinary customer service, one-stop shopping, and the most extensive portfolio of in-stock products in its market.
Industry News
NCTO Calls White House Announcement on Actions Limiting De Minimis a Step Forward; Calls for Comprehensive Action to Address Abuse of De Minimis
September 13, 2024 — National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) President and CEO Kim Glas issued a statement on the White House announcement and fact sheet that outlined executive actions to curtail de minimis shipments in addition to other key measures on enforcement and domestic procurement. Read Statement by NCTO President and CEO Kim Glas >
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Americas 21st — all-in-one supplier for Sewing Manufacturing Equipment, Automation, Training, Design, and Services!
Taking Office: New OEKO-TEX CEO
Dr. Alfred J. Beerli took over the position of Managing Director at OEKO-TEX® in June 2024. The Swiss national has extensive experience in strategic management consulting, operational management, IT, and knowledge management. He was previously Managing Director at uniQ Consulting AG and Workfashion.com AG and a board member of Amfori BSCI, an initiative to improve working conditions in global supply chains.
In his role, Dr. Beerli plans to develop the globally acting certifier’s portfolio further. Another focus of his work will be dedicated to intensified dialogue and cooperation with government institutions, initiatives, and trade associations. “Ecologically responsible actions and social justice have shaped my professional and private life,” says Beerli. Thus, he emphasizes his total commitment to ensuring sustainable and transparent processes – nowadays in the international textile and leather industry – and that shoulder-to-shoulder with the 17 independent research and testing institutes of the OEKO-TEX® Association acting out of Zurich.
Alfred J. Beerli - Photo: OEKO-TEX
C and C Enterprise is the United States agency for Highlead sewing machines. These high-quality machines are available for your sewing needs and are sold only through local dealers and distributors. If you want more information on the Highlead brand, please feel free to contact us. www.candcenterprise.com
Cansew Celebrates 100 Years
Cansew Inc., an industrial sewing threads, dyeing, elastic, and accessories producer based in Montreal, Canada, announced its celebration of 100 years of business. The company makes high-performance polyester, nylon, and technical threads that are sewn into furniture, geotextiles, and garments, including personal protective equipment. Read More >
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Lectra Announces A Strategic Partnership With Six Atomic
Lectra announced a strategic partnership with the Singapore-based company Six Atomic.As a player in the fashion, automotive, and furniture markets, Lectra contributes to the Industry 4.0 revolution by providing software, cutting equipment, data analytics solutions, and associated services to brands, manufacturers, and retailers. Read More >
Industry Book Review
American Flannel: How a Band of Entrepreneurs Are Bringing the Art and Business of Making Clothes Back Home
Author: Steven Kurutz / Reviewer: Dave Gardner
There is a ton of textiles, soft goods, and clothing manufacturing history discussed here that I (Dave Gardner) have been keenly aware of and associated with since graduating from the North Carolina State University School of Textiles in 1968.
I really enjoyed and related to this book…it struck so close to home.
In his book, New York Times reporter Steven Kurutz takes a thoughtful look at and paints an entertaining portrait of American clothing manufacturing, its rise, fall, and some degree of rebirth.
The story of our industry moving from New England, to the mid-Atlantic states, the south, offshore, and overseas is sad. Some of the generations of folks who made a living in the mills are still around and profiled in this book. A few good companies still exist that are making fabric, yarn, and clothing… and I wish them good luck. Read More >
I really enjoyed and related to this book…it struck so close to home.
In his book, New York Times reporter Steven Kurutz takes a thoughtful look at and paints an entertaining portrait of American clothing manufacturing, its rise, fall, and some degree of rebirth.
The story of our industry moving from New England, to the mid-Atlantic states, the south, offshore, and overseas is sad. Some of the generations of folks who made a living in the mills are still around and profiled in this book. A few good companies still exist that are making fabric, yarn, and clothing… and I wish them good luck. Read More >
Published by Riverhead Books,
an imprint of Penguin Random House LLC
Supply Chain
Textile Imbalances
There is significant potential to expand the textile market and triple or quadruple Pakistan’s exports. The country’s share in the global textiles market has remained almost stagnant over the past 13 years, while Bangladesh, India, and Vietnam have seen continuous growth.
The greatest challenge for the textile sector is addressing the structural imbalances it faces. For instance, Pakistan uses cotton in 70 percent of its textile products, while only 30 percent of man-made fibers are blended with cotton. In contrast, the global average is 75 percent man-made fibers blended with 25 percent cotton. Read More >
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An employee working at a textile factory in Pakistan's port city of Karachi
Sustainability
OEKO-TEX to Ban Use of PFAS ‘Forever Chemicals’
OEKO-TEX, a leading testing and certification organization, has announced a ban on the intentional use of PFAS (per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances) in certified products. The organization has also updated its testing criteria to align with new US and EU regulations. Starting in October 2024, these enhanced testing methods will improve the detection of both easily released PFAS and those more deeply embedded in materials.
Over the past five years, nearly 20 US states have enacted significant regulations on PFAS, often referred to as “forever chemicals” due to their persistence in the environment. These chemicals are commonly used in water- and stain-resistant coatings for textiles but have been linked to serious health risks, including liver damage, thyroid disease, and cancer. So far, 19 states have introduced laws to restrict or ban PFAS across various product categories. Read More >
OEKO-TEX reports 50,000+ certifications in 2023/2024
The international OEKO-TEX association has continued to demonstrate positive business growth, highlighting the critical role of close collaboration and shared commitment in accelerating sustainable change. More than 35,000 textile and leather companies depend on the certificates and product labels issued by OEKO-TEX’s independent testing institutes. OEKO-TEX issued more than 50,000 certificates and labels between July 1, 2023, and June 30, 2024 – an increase of 22% over the previous financial year. Read More >
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World of Fashion
Fashion e-Commerce: Virtual Try-on with Anthropics Technology Lateral Entrants on the Rise
by Yvonne Heinen-Foudeh, Senior International Correspondent
Back in April, we discovered Zyler Virtual Try-on at Anthropics Technology’s booth while visiting the premier event for the Retail Technology Show in London. – The perfect place, by the way, to discover the latest technological innovation as well for the fashion segment we figured out. CEO Alexander Berend and his team are obviously on the way to redirecting the spotlight from some established solution providers for virtual try-on win the award “Virtual Fitting Room Innovation of the Year” then in May. Read More >
Putting powerful tools in the hands of creative people worldwide and that worldwide – had been declared the mission for the early AI adopters from day one. Anthropics Technology Ltd, London, originates from the development of digital photo-editing tools. Founded in 1998, they own an internationally proven track record for designing affordable and intuitive graphics and animation software.
Tom Ford secures Belgian Haider Ackermann as Creative Director
by Yvonne Heinen-Foudeh, Senior International Correspondent
American luxury fashion house founded by namesake movie maker and designer Tom Ford SA announced the appointment of Haider Ackermann as the brand's new Creative Director. The Belgian, known for his meticulous cuts and modern style, will be responsible for the creative direction of both the women's and men's collections. His first collection will be presented at Paris Fashion Week in March 2025.
"I've been a huge fan of Haider's work for a long time. I find both his womenswear and his menswear equally compelling," said Ford. "He's an incredible colorist, his cuts are sharp, and most importantly, he's modern. We share a lot of historical references, and I'm very excited to see what he does with the brand."
Read More >
"I am extremely proud to be carrying on the legacy of Tom Ford, whom I have long admired and respected…," said Ackermann of his new role. "…and very excited about what lies ahead." Photos: Marie Claire
Industry Events
SPESA to Host 2024 Executive Conference in Montréal, Quebec
You are invited to join me at the 2024 SPESA Executive Conference in Montréal for an opportunity to connect with industry leaders from around the world and discuss some of the most important issues impacting the sewn products industry in the Western Hemisphere. SPESA is a U.S.-based trade association, of which I am a member, that represents suppliers of technology, machinery, equipment, parts, raw materials, and services to the sewn products industry. This year’s SPESA Executive Conference — making its Canadian debut — will feature a combination of panel discussions, exciting case studies, and intimate fireside chats, focusing on advanced textile technology, revolutionary sustainability initiatives, North American manufacturing, and the next generation of the sewn products industry.
The conference will be held at Le Mount Stephen Hotel in Montreal's bustling city center. It will begin with a welcome networking reception on October 8th, followed by a full day of education and an off-site dinner on October 9th, as well as a series of factory tours and a final networking reception to close out the event on October 10th. Tour stops will include INNOTEX, an innovative manufacturer of turnout gear; CTT Group, a non-profit focusing on sustainable textile research; and, best of all, the Cirque du Soleil costume shop. All activities are included in the event registration. This event is open to suppliers, manufacturers, brands, retailers, academia, and other industry stakeholders. As my invited guest, please use code GGMontreal to receive $200 off registration.
Visit https://www.spesa.org/spesa-executive-conference to learn more.
I look forward to seeing you there!
JIAM 2024
JIAM 2024 OSAKA will be held at INTEX Osaka from Wednesday – Saturday, November 27-30, 2024, under the theme ‘It all connects at JIAM - the forefront of technology and master craftsmanship’. Many major manufacturers and organizations have expressed their participation in the trade show as exhibitors.
Since JIAM started accepting registrations for exhibitors in September 2023, they have received many inquiries from companies and organizations in Japan and overseas. As for overseas exhibitors, KRISHNA LAMICOAT PVT. LTD (India), INL International(Singapore), and 4 companies including new exhibitor Wuhan Golden Laser have applied from China which had travel restrictions due to COVID-19 at the last edition of JIAM in 2022.
JASMA will continuously promote JIAM 2024 OSAKA to the organizers, its exhibitors, and related organizations at industry-related trade shows held in Japan as well as at sewing-related trade shows. For upcoming fairs, DTG 2024 in Dhaka (Bangladesh) in February, DTC 2024 in Shenzhen (China) in March, and Texprocess (Frankfurt) 2024 in April.
JASMA will continuously promote JIAM 2024 OSAKA to the organizers, its exhibitors, and related organizations at industry-related trade shows held in Japan as well as at sewing-related trade shows. For upcoming fairs, DTG 2024 in Dhaka (Bangladesh) in February, DTC 2024 in Shenzhen (China) in March, and Texprocess (Frankfurt) 2024 in April.