Sustainability
OEKO-TEX to Ban Use of PFAS ‘Forever Chemicals’
ZURICH, SWITZERLAND – OEKO-TEX, a leading testing and certification organization, has announced a ban on the intentional use of PFAS (per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances) in certified products. The organization has also updated its testing criteria to align with new US and EU regulations. Starting in October 2024, these enhanced testing methods will improve the detection of both easily released PFAS and those more deeply embedded in materials.
Over the past five years, nearly 20 US states have enacted significant regulations on PFAS, often referred to as “forever chemicals” due to their persistence in the environment. These chemicals are commonly used in water- and stain-resistant coatings for textiles but have been linked to serious health risks, including liver damage, thyroid disease, and cancer. So far, 19 states have introduced laws to restrict or ban PFAS across various product categories.
In Europe, PFAS regulations are also tightening. In May, Denmark announced plans to ban the sale of clothes, shoes, and waterproofing products containing PFAS, with the ban set to take effect on July 1, 2026, allowing businesses a transition period for compliance. Meanwhile, French lawmakers have supported a bill to restrict the manufacture, import, and sale of non-essential products, including textiles, that contain PFAS.
OEKO-TEX’s latest annual report, covering the period from July 1, 2023, to June 30, 2024, revealed the organization issued over 50,000 certificates and labels during this time. Additionally, more than 40,000 chemical products were certified under the OEKO-TEX Eco Passport program for the first time.Introduced in 2023, the Eco Passport certification includes stringent supply chain traceability requirements, with the first certified products hitting the market in January 2024. The certification also saw a significant tightening of GMO (genetically modified organisms) standards, reducing the allowable limit from 10 to 5 percent to ensure greater product purity and quality.
PFAS (Per- and Polyfluoroalkyl Substances) are used in textile manufacturing primarily to impart specific properties, such as:
• Water and oil repellency: This makes fabrics resistant to stains and moisture, ideal for outdoor gear, raincoats, and upholstery.• Stain resistance: PFAS can help prevent stains from setting into fabrics, making them easier to clean.• Grease resistance: This property is particularly useful in industries like food service and healthcare.• Heat resistance: PFAS can provide thermal protection, making them suitable for firefighting gear and other high-temperature applications.
These properties are achieved by creating a protective barrier on the fabric's surface that repels water, oil, and stains. 1 However, due to concerns about the environmental and health risks associated with PFAS, many manufacturers are seeking alternatives or reducing their use.
The first products certified under OEKO-TEX Organic Cotton were launched in January 2024. New sampling methods at the ginning and spinning stages were introduced to enhance certification reliability and the GMO contamination threshold was lowered to 5 percent (from 10 percent the previous year).
For more than 30 years, OEKO-TEX has provided solutions to help companies in the textile and leather industries improve their manufacturing processes transparently and sustainably. With a presence in over 100 countries, 35,000 manufacturers, brands, and trading companies currently collaborate with OEKO-TEX to bring safe, and sustainable products to the market.
For more than 30 years, OEKO-TEX has provided solutions to help companies in the textile and leather industries improve their manufacturing processes transparently and sustainably. With a presence in over 100 countries, 35,000 manufacturers, brands, and trading companies currently collaborate with OEKO-TEX to bring safe, and sustainable products to the market.