Industry Technologies
This is the first of a two-part article that was originally written by Ken Sandow, who was an instructor and technician at Union Special’s Technical Training Center. From 1970 to 1972, Ken served as a sewing engineer in the Union Special's Product Application Department.
In the next issue, The Needle’s Eye will look even more closely at “Seams and Stitches”.
Following the first mechanically formed 101 stitch produced in 1825, inventors throughout the world were quick to develop improved machines and more complex stitches. By the turn of the century, most of the stitch types used today had been invented, providing garment manufacturers with a wide selection. Each had its own special attributes of strength, elasticity, coverage, invisibility, and decoration.
With nearly 60 different stitch types available, a degree of confusion was inevitable. Often it was caused by the same stitch being referred to by different names in different parts of the world. Not until 1925 did a committee organized by the Federal Specifications Board classify the many different stitches and seams according to a convenient, and now internationally accepted, system of letters and numbers.
The nomenclature of a stitch/seam type consists of a number to designate the stitch type followed by letters to designate the seam type. Capital letters are used to indicate the general seam classification and are followed by a lowercase letter which indicates the specific seam type within the more general classification. A final number, following the stitch/seam specification, indicates the number of independent rows of stitches used in the seam.
Below are the more popular stitch types available today with a brief description of the manner in which they are formed and of their application.
100 STITCH CLASS
100 STITCH CLASS represents the oldest form of mechanically produced stitches. Referred to as single-thread chainstitches, they are formed by a needle thread that is passed through the material and is interlooped with itself by means of a spreader or a blind looper.
101 is an easily removed stitch used for basting, tacking, button sewing, label setting, and bag closing. It is the simplest of all mechanically formed stitches.
103 is a single-thread blindstitch formed with a curved needle that barely penetrates the bottom ply of material. It is used for blind stitch felling and hemming operations on garments and draperies.
104 is a saddle stitch used to produce a decorative effect on suits, dresses, jackets, etc. It is formed by pulling the needle thread back through the top of the material where it is looped with itself.
101 is an easily removed stitch used for basting, tacking, button sewing, label setting, and bag closing. It is the simplest of all mechanically formed stitches.
103 is a single-thread blindstitch formed with a curved needle that barely penetrates the bottom ply of material. It is used for blind stitch felling and hemming operations on garments and draperies.
104 is a saddle stitch used to produce a decorative effect on suits, dresses, jackets, etc. It is formed by pulling the needle thread back through the top of the material where it is looped with itself.
300 STITCH CLASS
300 STITCH CLASS (lockstitch) is formed by the needle thread passing through the material and interlocking with a bobbin thread by means of a rotary or oscillating hook.
301 is a very tight stitch that looks the same on the top and the bottom of the seam. It is used for runstitching and seaming operations on all types of apparel. It produces a secure seam with a minimum of grin. The ratio of needle thread to bobbin thread is 1 to 1 in a correctly formed stitch where the threads are interlocked in the middle of the material.
304 is a zigzag lockstitch produced by moving the needle from side to side, thereby putting more thread into the seam for greater elasticity. Used on lingerie, foundation garments, and infants' clothing. It combines comfort with stretch.
306 is a lockstitch blindstitch which is more secure than the single-thread 103 stitch type. It is desirable for its durability and its hand-tailored appearance.
313, a lockstitch blindstitch, is used for felling linings and hems on suit coats. When correctly applied, this stitch is invisible on both the top and the bottom of the seam.
314, another lockstitch blindstitch, provides the quality and the appearance of hand blindstitching and is usually used for felling undercollars and linings at the sleeve on suit coats and tailored garments.
301 is a very tight stitch that looks the same on the top and the bottom of the seam. It is used for runstitching and seaming operations on all types of apparel. It produces a secure seam with a minimum of grin. The ratio of needle thread to bobbin thread is 1 to 1 in a correctly formed stitch where the threads are interlocked in the middle of the material.
304 is a zigzag lockstitch produced by moving the needle from side to side, thereby putting more thread into the seam for greater elasticity. Used on lingerie, foundation garments, and infants' clothing. It combines comfort with stretch.
306 is a lockstitch blindstitch which is more secure than the single-thread 103 stitch type. It is desirable for its durability and its hand-tailored appearance.
313, a lockstitch blindstitch, is used for felling linings and hems on suit coats. When correctly applied, this stitch is invisible on both the top and the bottom of the seam.
314, another lockstitch blindstitch, provides the quality and the appearance of hand blindstitching and is usually used for felling undercollars and linings at the sleeve on suit coats and tailored garments.
400 STITCH CLASS
400 STITCH CLASS is comprised of stitch types referred to as multi-thread chainstitches (double-locked stitches). The extra elasticity makes them ideally suited for use on knit and stretch fabrics. This stitch is formed by passing one or more needle threads through the material where they are interlooped with a single looper thread. Because the looper draws its threads from a cone, the need to replace bobbins is eliminated.
401 uses a needle thread and looper thread to produce an elastic stitch which is used on a wide range of main seaming operations on all types of garments.
401 uses a needle thread and looper thread to produce an elastic stitch which is used on a wide range of main seaming operations on all types of garments.
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In the example shown here, a 401-LSc-2 "401" indicates a two-thread chain¬stitch double locked. "LS" indicates a lapped seam, while the "c" indicates the specific seam configuration. The "2" indicates that two independent rows of 401 stitches are used to construct this seam.
402 uses two needles and one looper to produce a corded or welted effect on the face of the material between the two needle threads. It is used to simulate permanent creases on knit pants and for cording on the backs of gloves.
404 is a zigzag version of the 401 used traditionally for attaching zigzag waistband linings and curtains to pants. Because of the zigzag, the 404 is a more elastic·stitch than the 401.
406 uses two needles and one looper. This stitch type was originally used for coverseaming a previously sewn seam. Other applications include making belt loops, binding, and elastic attaching to undergarments. It is also used to hem bathing suits, pajamas, and sportswear.
407 uses three needles and one looper. It is a stitch with even greater elasticity and strength, and better coverage is achieved. It is widely used for attaching elastic to briefs, panties, and similar undergarments.
406 uses two needles and one looper. This stitch type was originally used for coverseaming a previously sewn seam. Other applications include making belt loops, binding, and elastic attaching to undergarments. It is also used to hem bathing suits, pajamas, and sportswear.
407 uses three needles and one looper. It is a stitch with even greater elasticity and strength, and better coverage is achieved. It is widely used for attaching elastic to briefs, panties, and similar undergarments.
500 STITCH CLASS
500 STITCH CLASS includes a group of overedge stitches used for seaming and edge-finishing operations on practically all types and weights of materials. These stitch types are very elastic and offer excellent coverage on the edge of the fabric to prevent unraveling.
501 uses a single thread to produce a break-open seam that is used for bold end seaming applications. When opened, the seam is flat without any overlapping of the material, allowing it to pass easily through dyeing or finishing machinery.
502 is a two-thread stitch formed by drawing the looper thread around the edge of the material. It is primarily used for bag seaming.
503 is a two-thread stitch similar to 502 except that the needle thread interlocks with the looper thread on the edge forming a "purl”. The 503 stitch is used for serging or blind hemming operations.
504, the most popular of the 500 Class stitches, uses three threads and is applicable to a wide range of seaming operations. A tight secure seam is produced with both top and bottom looper threads meeting on the edge.
505, sometimes called the box or square-edge-stitch, produces the best coverage for serging operations. It is also used to break open seams on garments.
512 is a four-thread, mock safety-stitch formed by using two loopers and two needles where the right needle only enters the upper loop to give the appearance of a safety-stitch. This stitch is both strong and elastic.
514 is similar to the 512 except that both needles enter the upper looper thread. It has the strength and elastic advantages of the mock safety-stitch with the additional advantage of being able to chain off more consistently.
515 is a true safety-stitch formed by simultaneously sewing one row of 401 stitches and one row of 503 stitches. This configuration combines the strength and stretch advantages of both stitch types to produce a durable seam.
516 is another variation of the safety-stitch which uses a row of 504 stitches plus a row of 401 stitches. Although an additional thread is used in the overedge portion of this stitch, it also is used to make a strong, durable seam.
519 is a six-thread safety-stitch comprised of a 602 stitch on the edge and a 401 stitch. It provides excellent strength and coverage on heavier-weight material.
521 is a three-thread stitch used for break-open seaming on men's and women's hosiery. From 20 to 100 stitches per inch are often used resulting in a strong, yet comfortable hosiery seam.
501 uses a single thread to produce a break-open seam that is used for bold end seaming applications. When opened, the seam is flat without any overlapping of the material, allowing it to pass easily through dyeing or finishing machinery.
502 is a two-thread stitch formed by drawing the looper thread around the edge of the material. It is primarily used for bag seaming.
503 is a two-thread stitch similar to 502 except that the needle thread interlocks with the looper thread on the edge forming a "purl”. The 503 stitch is used for serging or blind hemming operations.
504, the most popular of the 500 Class stitches, uses three threads and is applicable to a wide range of seaming operations. A tight secure seam is produced with both top and bottom looper threads meeting on the edge.
505, sometimes called the box or square-edge-stitch, produces the best coverage for serging operations. It is also used to break open seams on garments.
512 is a four-thread, mock safety-stitch formed by using two loopers and two needles where the right needle only enters the upper loop to give the appearance of a safety-stitch. This stitch is both strong and elastic.
514 is similar to the 512 except that both needles enter the upper looper thread. It has the strength and elastic advantages of the mock safety-stitch with the additional advantage of being able to chain off more consistently.
515 is a true safety-stitch formed by simultaneously sewing one row of 401 stitches and one row of 503 stitches. This configuration combines the strength and stretch advantages of both stitch types to produce a durable seam.
516 is another variation of the safety-stitch which uses a row of 504 stitches plus a row of 401 stitches. Although an additional thread is used in the overedge portion of this stitch, it also is used to make a strong, durable seam.
519 is a six-thread safety-stitch comprised of a 602 stitch on the edge and a 401 stitch. It provides excellent strength and coverage on heavier-weight material.
521 is a three-thread stitch used for break-open seaming on men's and women's hosiery. From 20 to 100 stitches per inch are often used resulting in a strong, yet comfortable hosiery seam.
600 STITCH CLASS
600 STITCH CLASS is referred to as a coverstitch. Stitches in this class are formed similarly to the multi-needle 400 stitch types but with the addition of a top cover or spreader thread. Flatter seams, greater coverage, and excellent elasticity account for the popularity of this stitch class as used on foundation and undergarment operations.
602 is a four-thread stitch type used for binding operations on knit undergarments, athletic shirts, and infants' wear. It provides excellent coverage on both the top and bottom of cut-edge binding.
605 is a five-thread stitch type well suited to lapped seaming and elastic attaching operations, as well as to cut-edge binding operations. It is also used as a decorative stitch.
607 is a six-thread stitch type providing more coverage than any of the other stitches in the 600 class. It is used for flat seaming operations on undergarments, sportswear, infants' wear, etc.
602 is a four-thread stitch type used for binding operations on knit undergarments, athletic shirts, and infants' wear. It provides excellent coverage on both the top and bottom of cut-edge binding.
605 is a five-thread stitch type well suited to lapped seaming and elastic attaching operations, as well as to cut-edge binding operations. It is also used as a decorative stitch.
607 is a six-thread stitch type providing more coverage than any of the other stitches in the 600 class. It is used for flat seaming operations on undergarments, sportswear, infants' wear, etc.
In the next issue, The Needle’s Eye will look even more closely at “Seams and Stitches”.
